July 19, 2026
Description
Update 03-17-2026 — Magnetic bracket option added
A second bracket variant is now available using magnets instead of expansion bushings. The magnets snap directly onto the SHCS screw heads — instant attach, instant remove, no screws needed.
Magnetic bracket — parts and assembly:
The bracket has two through-holes sized for press-fitting 5x10mm N52 neodymium magnets. To install the magnets, use a drill press (or any flat pressing surface) to push them evenly into the holes. The fit is tight enough that no adhesive is needed. If your tolerances are slightly loose, a drop of CA glue from the back will secure them.
Print the bracket with 2mm brim (inner and outer) for bed adhesion. Built-in support is included in the STL — snap it off after printing.
Which version to choose:
Expansion bushing bracket — more secure lock, needs 2x M3x10 SHCS, slightly more effort to install/remove.
Magnetic bracket — instant snap-on/snap-off, no hardware needed beyond the magnets, but holding force depends on magnet quality and distance to screw heads.
Additional BOM for magnetic version:
2x 5x10mm N52 neodymium cylinder magnets — JC Magnetics
A simple, non-invasive camera mount that attaches to the two bottom SHCS screws of your Stealthburner front cover. No reprinting, no permanent modifications.
Update 03-13-2026— Redesigned for no supports
All parts print without support. Geometry optimized for supportless printing.
The video still shows the earlier design but the mounting concept and functionality are identical.
The bracket uses two small expansion bushings that slide into the existing SHCS counterbores. A partial turn of an M3 screw expands each bushing, locking the mount firmly in place. To remove, just loosen the screws and pull — the Stealthburner stays completely stock.
The camera cradle holds a miniature USB board camera (15x15mm, OV2710 sensor) aimed at the nozzle area. The USB cable can be routed alongside your existing umbilical using small clips.
Why I made this: I wanted to watch extrusion in real time for debugging first layers, stringing, and pressure advance tuning — without committing to a permanent mod or reprinting my Stealthburner body.
Lens tips: The mount works with any M12 lens on a 15x15mm OV2710 board camera. The stock 1.5mm fisheye gives you a full view of the hotend area but the nozzle appears small. For better nozzle detail, try a 2.8mm or 3.6mm M12 lens — just unscrew and swap. Keep in mind that not all M12 lenses fit every board due to back focal length differences, so if a lens won't focus, it's likely too long for your specific camera module.
Cable routing clips
Small snap-on clips included for routing the camera USB cable alongside your bowden tube. The clips grip the camera cable and slide on/off the bowden easily — no zip ties needed. Print a few spares since they're tiny and easy to lose.
Image rotation tip: Due to cable routing, the camera mounts with the image sideways. In Mainsail, set Rotate to 270° in webcam settings. For a fullscreen rotated view in your browser, a helper file is included (Voron3t_Nozzle_Cam_rename_to_html.txt). Download it, rename to .html, open with a text editor, replace REPLACE_WITH_YOUR_RPI_IP with your Raspberry Pi's IP address, save, and open in your browser.
The name "Voron3t" comes from my Voron 2.4 350mm build — it's the nickname I gave the printer. So naturally, its eye needed a name too.
BOM:
1x 15x15mm USB camera module (OV2710, 1080P, M12 mount) — AliExpress
2x M3x10 SHCS
Printed parts: 1x bracket, 2x expansion bushing, 4x cable clip (ASA recommended)
Print settings: 0.2mm layer height, 4 walls, 40% infill, ASA.
Setup guide: A PDF is included with step-by-step instructions for setting up the USB camera streaming on a Raspberry Pi using go2rtc and Mainsail.
About Voron3tz
Voron3tz is a collection of open-source mods designed, printed, and tested on a Voron 2.4 350mm LDO build. Every mod comes with STEP files so you can adapt them to your own setup.
Why Voron3tz? Voron + 3D = Voroneț, a 500-year-old painted monastery in Romania with a blue pigment that somehow still hasn't faded. If the paint can survive five centuries of Bucovina weather, ASA parts can probably handle a heated chamber. Probably.
If something doesn't fit right, could work better, or you just want to share your build — drop a comment or a make. Feedback is what keeps these projects improving.
More Voron3tz mods:
Panel Glide System — TPU rail system for tool-free panel removal
Umbilical Mounting & Routing System — Complete CAN bus umbilical solution with spine system
Carbon Filter System — External filter with tool-free cartridge replacement and return air duct
CW2 Cover for Nitehawk-SB — Dual fan support with Noctua/Wathai options
LED Strip Slide-In Mount — 30° and 45° variants for 2020 extrusion
TPU Rear Panel Seal — Filament passthrough with PTFE channel
The Equalizer Belt Tension Tool — Mechanical belt tension comparator
License:
GNU General Public License v3.0
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danec
