SpoolGrow – Microgreens System

SpoolGrow is a smart microgreens growing system designed around a reused Prusament spool, giving it a second life as a functional and aesthetic indoor gardening device.

♻ The design transforms the spool into a structural base , creating a compact desktop growing station for fresh microgreens.

At its core ⚡, the spool provides space for electronics such as an ESP32 controller, enabling optional smart lighting control and future expandability.

Above the planters , an integrated LED grow light system provides optimal illumination for plant growth, while maintaining a clean and minimal aesthetic.

The system is fully modular , allowing multiple configurations depending on user needs, and emphasizes sustainability through upcycling and efficient material use.

This concept combines functionality and sustainability, into a single compact desktop ecosystem ✨.

Better render images coming soon.

READ!! 

I am having problems with units sometimes it opens with centimeters so it is to big (180cm instead of 180mm). Diameter should be something around 180mm. If you are having same issue just scale it with 0.1 of original size. I will try to eliminate this problem as soon as possible. And I will be happy if you leave me comment what can I improve.

Print instructions

• Nozzle: 0.4 mm

• Layer height: 0.2 mm

• Infill: 20–30% (gyroid or grid)

• Supports: not required

PLA works great for indoor use PETG is recommended if you want better durability or higher resistance to moisture.

Spool compatibility

The design is based on the standard Prusament spool (approx. 200 mm diameter and 55–60 mm width) .

The largest single part fits comfortably on standard FDM printers with a minimum build plate of approximately 220 × 220 mm . This is derived from the spool diameter, ensuring that each section of the planter remains printable on most common desktop 3D printers.

Snap-fit legs

The legs are designed to snap into the honeycomb pattern of the spool

Because FDM printers and materials can vary slightly, the fit may not be perfectly identical on every machine.

If the snap-fit is too tight, lightly sanding the tips of the legs should fix it. This is normal for this type of connection.

If the fit is slightly loose, a small amount of glue or minor friction adjustment can be used.

LED Lighting Setup

To keep the project affordable and accessible, a standard WS2812-compatible LED ring was used instead of higher-cost branded alternatives

The selected LED ring provides similar functionality while significantly reducing cost (~9.5 € / ~$10.5), making the design more approachable for a wider audience

You will need:

LED ring: https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32988746132.html#nav-specification -you can use other ring but make sure it fits into prusament spool and you will may need to adjust code, because of other library that it might be using (this should fit fine)

LED ring:

• There are two cables made of three wires, we will need only one for input

•  Red is for VCC and black for GND and we need to find DIN 

• So just upload code to Arduino and try to connect one of two cables and then try another if it lights up you find correct one and you can connect it to Arduino 

• But we will still use other one we don't need to use 

• We will unsolder it and then solder it to resistor and Arduino 

• The wires uses male–female connectors, allowing easy disassembly of the spool when accessing or replacing the plants.

Arduino UNO,  560-ohm resistor, cables and solder

The ring includes both input (DIN) and output (DOUT) connections, allowing for easy expansion if needed. For this project, only the input connection is used

The lighting system is fully compatible with Arduino UNO and can be controlled using common libraries such as FastLED or Adafruit NeoPixel ⚡

Connection: 

Arduino → Resistor(for protection) → LED Ring

------------------------------

Pin 6 → 560Ω → DIN

GND → → GND

5V → → VCC

You can use this tutorial I found online:  (just paste there code underneath instead of shown in video)

Code:

#include <FastLED.h> //don't forget to install libraries too, not only include

#define LED_PIN 6 

#define NUM_LEDS 60 //change to number on LEDs on your ring

CRGB leds[NUM_LEDS];

void setup() {

FastLED.addLeds<WS2812, LED_PIN, GRB>(leds, NUM_LEDS);

}

void loop() {

// soft neutral white light 

for(int i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) {

leds[i] = CRGB(180, 180, 160);

}

FastLED.show();

}

You can see in online emulator code works perfectly:

1) Turned off (LEDs not emitting light)

2) Turned on (LEDs are white)

Assembly notes

1) Disassemble the Prusament spool and insert the PotModel 

2) Reassemble the spool back together

3) Snap the LegModel into the honeycomb pattern (you may need slight adjustment for fit) 🧩

4) Secure the ESP32 inside the spool (glue or other mounting method)

5) Attach the LED ring above the pot 💡

6) Solder the required wires to the ESP32 🔌

7) Upload the code to the ESP32 via a USB-C cable using Arduino software (the cable will then used as a power source) 💻

8) Add your growing medium and plant microgreens 🌱

You will may need to setup Arduino for the first time, here you can find tutorial:

Print notes

The model is designed to print without supports. No resin printer or MMU system is required.

A minimum build plate size of around 220 × 220 mm is recommended for comfortable printing of the larger parts.

Disclaimer

This project is intended as a concept and inspiration.

Please use it at your own discretion.

Depending on your printer, materials, and electronic components, you may need to adjust tolerances, assembly, or code.

The included code is a basic example and might not work perfectly in every setup (but in online emulator worked perfectly).

Note

My 3D printer is currently not functional, so the project is presented as a concept with renders. I plan to add real photos once I manage to repair it.

(Idea, 3D model, render in blender and design is made completely by myself. AI was only used to assist with translating the printing instructions into English, since I am not fully confident in my English, because it is not my native language)