B2V2 Front Pocket - Dual XT90

This .3mf file represents the final version of the B2V2 front pocket that I used for my build. This is a modification of Alec Muir's original XT90 front pocket (available in the Mods folder on the Baddeley OneDrive) but with the central geometry for power switches removed and the battery connectors moved closer to the center to accommodate the Blue Seas breaker switch I installed in the bottom of the piece.

This .3mf file includes negative volumes that provide hole expansions for M3 heatset inserts for the battery panel mounts as well as holes for the Blue Seas 40amp breaker switch that I used. Finally, there is a portion of the central geometry that is blocked out to provide a bit more room for stiff 10 gauge wire to be routed within the pocket.

Any of these negative volumes can be removed if they are not appropriate for your implementation or resized to best fit your particular heatsets.

The other relevant components I used include:

• Blue Seas Breaker Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MMC8BU

• XT90 Panel Mounts: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DBK97VJ

• XT90 Parallel Connector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J89FF88

Each arm of the parallel connector is attached to the bottom side of a panel mount, and the other end is simply folded up to the center of the pocket, where the single, unified connector is held in place with a simple bracket.

The two additional holes for heatsets located on the vertical sides near the center are there to provide a means of attaching any additional strap or cable management system you might find necessary to keep things in place. Sadly, I could not locate the simple bracket I created, but designing your own should be very straightforward.

From this central connection, the negative lead feeds the negative bus bar, while the positive lead routes through the main power switch/breaker and then feeds the positive 24v bus bar.

Finally, should you decide to include the Blue Seas main power switch listed above, the outer front body panel will need to be modified to allow access to the power switch.  A simple negative volume box created in your slicer and positioned correctly should be all that is needed. Unfortunately, I no longer have the slicer project I used for this.

In my final front panel, the opening is 40mm wide and 20mm deep (front to back). It starts 70mm from the nearest edge like this:

This is how the final installation currently looks on my build. Note, I recently added a small central switch that is used to turn the Kyber WiFi on and off. I have not shared this as I do not recall the source of the switch, it was just something I had on hand and it happened to fit.