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No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer 3D Printer File Image 1
No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer 3D Printer File Image 2
No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer 3D Printer File Image 3
No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer 3D Printer File Image 4
No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

No-PCB eletronics mount for DIY RC GoCart - TableRacer

BeastCAT avatarBeastCAT

July 5, 2026

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Description

I didn't want to source the PCB and components when I had parts to build an RC setup, so made a mounting plate for a standard ESC with BEC and a power switch (I used a overkill 20amp ESC I had around but anything with >2amp and a BEC that outputs 5v for the "radio" and servo will work as long as it fits) and wired it up with some crimp connectors.

The final version uses a JST-WH 4-pin connector on the ESP32 and a 3-pin male Dupont connector for the steering servo, there is also a version for header pins and a Dupont 4P connector on the ESP32 but it isn't as reliable. For wiring I just cut the most of the servo wire from the ESC and crimped an extra 5v and GND wire into the JST-WH 4P connector with the ESC servo wires and connected them to the Dupont 3Pm (or header pins and ele tape) for the servo. The JST-WH 4P plug is soldered to the the Vin, G, 12, and 13 pins on the back if the ESP32 and the ESP32 screws to the plate with four M2x4 screws with the plug sticking thru. The ESC goes on the back of the plate with the switch screwed in place with two more m2x4mm screws and the wires shortened to the correct length, and the motor soldered directly to it in reverse ( black wire to + motor terminal) with the rest of the cutoff ESC servo wire. Double sided tape can be used to secure the ESC if needed. You will need two M3x10 screws to replace the ones that attach the rear axle to the frame.

I have also included a tray for two 14500(AA size) 3.7v Li-ion batteries that used some AA terminals I had kicking around and fits in the space for the original PCB, but the SCX24 sized lipo battery I ordered fits perfectly too. I used a JST-SM connector for the battery since the ESC had a JST-RCY and the battery had a PH2.0, but the unused motor connector from the ESC could be spliced on the battery instead or you could be patient and wait a couple more days to get a battery with the a plug that matches the ESC.

.step and .f3d files are included for easy modding, made with Autodesk Fusion's free hobby license. 

Update 7/5/26:

Uploaded the Arduino sketch I made for using a Bluetooth controller to drive. It uses the Bluepad32 board library (https://github.com/ricardoquesada/bluepad32) and should automatically connect with any controller that can connect to Android as a "gamepad". The current configuration uses the left stick to steer and the right trigger for throttle and the left trigger for brake, but there is also an option to use the left stick for throttle/brake. There is also trim adjustments for the throttle and steering by holding top button (Y on Xbox, triangle on PS) and using the D-pad, u-d for throttle or l-r for steering, but it resets every time it's shut off, so any major adjustments should be made by changing the default numbers in the code

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution

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