PixelClock

Meet PixelClock! First displayed at SMRRF 2026 and after making a few appearances at RMRRF, it's finally ready for others to make! I'm even putting together kits! Check out my website if you want to order one. I'm uploading both square pixels and round pixels for now, but plan to release alternate faces . This model is intended to be printable on a Prusa MINI or larger machine.

Kits will be available Soon™! 

Parts you will need:

• Roughly 2.5m of WS2812B LED strips (60LED/meter) Amazon

• ESP32 WROOM Amazon

• 25 M3x12mm screws Amazon

• 3 M3 square or hex nuts ( hex come with the assorted screws)

• 3 or 5 22g wires, approximately 250mm (10in) Amazon

**Some places can use shorter screws so you don't have to use all 25 of the 12mm ones from the assortment kit.

Firmware

Firmware is custom built and can be flashed over USB using this online EPS tool using Chrome or Edge.

Printing Tips:

• Printed with 0.2mm layers, standard profiles

• You will need to print one of everything with the exception of legs and pegs. Need 2 of each!

• The diffuser is 2 layers thick. You can stretch that part to make it thicker if you want and you can schedule a filament swap after those 2 layers if you want the front to be a different color.

• Make sure your first 2 layers are the same height as the diffuser (some slicers use .25mm for the first layer instead of .2mm)

• The light dividers (behind the diffuser) do best as a dark, opaque color. If they aren't opaque, the light can bleed between pixels. If they are a bright color, the reflection may tint the LEDs (use the test pieces to experiment).

• When printing the feet, increase the number of walls until they are 100% infill. They will print faster and be stronger this way. They print faster too.

When soldering wires, it's importable to note the direction of the arrows. They need to point away from the data wire! That is the direction the data travels.

Power at the end of the string is optional. I have seen some white go yellow without the extra power connections. Your experience may be different. You can see on the right how the top rows have a yellow tint as voltage drops. 

When inserting the LED, the bottom row is first by design, but the display can be flipped in software. It is important that the strip not get tangled. In my experience, this fold pattern worked best.  Creating the folds manually is important. They don't want to bend this way naturally.

Don't get it twisted! 

Make the second fold before you pull the strip through.

The final fold should easily fit in the cutout area. and the two end LEDs should roughly line up with those lines.

When done, all wires should feed back into the electrical box similar to above (old pic, will take new one).

These are the wire connections. Black is ground, Red is 5V and VIN, green is pin 18. You

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