Flip Case for PALA One

This an alternative case for the PALA One tiny e-reader designed from scratch to protect the screen when not in use.

The end goals for this design were to obtain a minimal and small case for the tiny PALA One e-reader that would protect the screen when in the pocket, prevent misclicks and reduce the overall size of the device.

This model took a lot of iterations (check the last image above), if you like it consider making a small donation! 

Comparison with the original V2.0 case:

Materials for assembly:

• 8x M2  threaded inserts, 2mm long

• 8x M2 bolts, 5mm long

  • The screws I used have a head diameter of 4mm and head thickness of 1.2mm

• 1x 503450 3.7V battery, slightly longer batteries should work. (Obviously also smaller in any direction should work)

• Glue (optional)

Printing instructions:

1. Print the files in the orientation as the 3mf files

2. The only part requiring supports is the clicker_pcb.3mf

3. Layer height: 0.2mm works well for all the parts but you may go lower for better results, specifically for the main_assembly.3mf.

4. Due to the very small size, I suggest printing clicker_pcb.3mf and clicker_battery.3mf separately from the rest.

5. If you are not sure about the tolerances of your printer, you can begin with test_hinge.3mf and adjust accordingly if it doesn't move after the print is complete. (Please not that the hinge may need a bit of persuasion. After playing with it for a while you should get a smooth hinge.)

Assembly instructions:

1. Print all the parts 

2. Make sure that the hinge moves freely, if it feels stuck, try helping it with a thin flat-head screwdriver and moving each hinge one by one. 

3. Insert the threaded inserts in the two lids (4 inserts per lid) 

4. All the screw holes include a single 0.2mm layer that makes them printable upside-down without supports. Break it with a screwdriver (do this 4 times on the battery compartment and 4 times on the PCB one). 

5. Insert the clicker_battery inside the battery_lid so that it protrudes a tiny bit on the outside. The fit should be very tight and you may need to use a hard object to fully press it in. 

6. Prepare the battery cables like suggested in the original guide, leaving a longer slack and making sure that the solder joint is close to the battery, like in the image. 

7. Now the (not so) fun part. You need to make the battery connector pass from the battery compartment to the PCB one. I think it helps to pre-shape the wire like in the image. The process is not so easy and may take several minutes. I found it helpful to jiggle both the cables and the hinges and finally use a thin sharp object to pull the cable out once it appears at the other end of the tunnel.

8. Now that the most difficult part is out you can insert the PCB (first insert the USB-C into its hole) and connect the cable. The PCB should drop in without issues. If you feel you need to push it in STOP and check what's wrong.

9. It is now time to close the two compartments. Start from the PCB one. Since the pcb_clicker held in place only by the PCB, you will need to close the compartment upside-down. Start by placing the pcb_clicker in its hole

   and then place the case with the pcb on top. Make sure that neither the PCB nor the clicker move during this step. Carefully press everything in place making sure that no part gets damaged. 

10. Repeat a similar process to secure the battery. To prevent pinching the cables, place the battery on the lid and close it when upside-down, making sure that the cable doesn't get pinched.

11. Test that the clicker do what they are supposed to before screwing all the pieces together.