July 10, 2026
Description
Note: This is not the final version, as I don't have an INDX yet. As soon as I get my Founders Edition, I plan to add mounts for PTFE tubes or INDX filament sensors. My goal is to do this with little to no modification to the existing parts.
UPDATE: Checkout my filament sensors holder V2 of holder
While waiting for the INDX, I am preparing a printer setup for 8 spools. For this purpose, I purchased 2 Creality SpacePi X4 dryers and created this rack which holds both of them. The lower drawer uses of the shelf GTV H45 VERSALITE PLUS+ 350mm drawer slides available on amazon, while the upper one is mounted permanently. I'm also including models for the upper side walls, where a drawer can also be installed on the top level, just keep in mind that I haven't tested this.
Heat Set Insert | M4x4 | 26 | |
Button head screw | M4x6 | 6 | |
Button head screw | M4x8 | 4 | |
Button head screw | M4x25 | 4 | |
Countersunk screw | M4x8 | 56 | |
Nut | M4 | 44 | |
Button head screw | M3x8 | 2 | |
Nut | M3 | 2 | |
Drawer slide | 350mm | 2 | |
Heat Set Insert | M3x5,7 | 8 | |
Button head screw | M3x8 | 8 |
Material: PETG
I used 4 walls and 25% gyroid infill on all parts. I highly recommend sticking with 4 walls, but you should be fine with less infill. Check the files "all parts part 1-3.3mf", they contain all my settings, part orientation, as well as where I used support and brim.
Insert 26× M4×4 heat inserts into the 8 parts that will form the two side walls. Optionally, press in 8× M3×5.6 inserts into bottom parts of the wall to serve as feet.
Take the four parts of one side wall and connect them using connectors. In two of the connectors, thread in M4×8 screws, attach the handle and tighten with M4×8 screws. Repeat for second wall
Take the drawer slides and detach the part that mounts to the drawer. Attach the wall-side part using 3× M4×6 button head screws. Repeat for the second side wall.
Take the 8 parts that will form the lower drawer and upper shelf. Insert M4 nuts into the bottom, and 4× M4 nuts (one per part) into the sides of the lower drawer.
Assemble the drawer and shelf parts using connectors and M4×8 countersunk screws. On the front of the drawer, insert 2× M3 nuts and attach the handle using M3×8 screws.
Note that the drawer has slots for nuts on each side, while the upper shelf has screw holes.
Install the previously disassembled drawer slides into the bottom drawer using 4x M4x8 button head screw
Take bracing rails connect them together using bracing rail connectors. Attach a triangular corner bracket to each end of every bracing rail. Use these assembled supports to connect the two side walls by inserting them into the slots and pushing downward.
Slide the drawer into place.
Using M4×25 screws, attach the shelf to the side walls by inserting bushings between the shelf and the wall (the screw must pass through the bushing).
Anti-Tip System:
I didn't want to mess around with sand or other weights to balance the rack and stop it from tipping over when the drawer is extended. Instead, I created a system that screws into the back of the tabletop where the rack sits, allowing for quick and easy removal.
I created an parametric .f3d file for the connector (it’s not perfect, but it works😅). Just measure the distance to the edge of the table as shown in the attached picture, and change the length parameter in the file. Remember to print the screw horizontally to make it much stronger.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — NoDerivatives
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