Controller Racker Tower

Controller Racker Tower

This is a from the ground up new version of my Game Controller Tower, which was inspired by the work of TheSkullMeister and evade.ninja. The goal with this version quite honestly was to make something that improved on the weaknesses in the previous mentioned controller towers, as well as make one that is harder for my kittens to knock over during their chaotic zommies.

Base Design

The design of the base to try and add stability against being tipped over is modeled after an angled D-Pad. This design also allows for recesses in each direction which are great for holding dongles for controllers like the offerings from 8-Bitdo. The tower itself is much thicker than the original versions, with twin flares at the rear for more stability, and mimic the basic shape of most game controllers. Each level of the base also has a holes through to the rear to both save on filament and allow for charging cables to be run to any controllers on display.

Options

Base

• Standard, has dongle recesses on each extensions, and mounting pegs for additional arms.

• Keyboard, which uses the design of the Standard, but adds a partial wall at the rear to catch a leaning keyboard , best paired with a keyboard variant of a Controller Arm 3 or 4 levels up for maximum stability depending on keyboard length. (Or potentially used to prop your Legend of Zelda Twilight Princess Prima guide book)

Arms

• Standard Controller, great for holding controllers for Xbox 360, Xbox One, Xbox Series, PlayStation 1-5, Game Cube, Switch Pro, Switch 2 Pro, 8Bitdo Pro, and most other controllers with twin handles.

• Mini Controller, great for smaller form factor controllers like the PowerA Nano, Horipad Mini, Iine (for small hands), Nyko Mini, or other smaller controllers typically themed to look like an animal like a fox, panda or raccoon, with shoulder buttons shaped like ears.

• Steam Controller, designed to fit the 2026 model of the Steam Controller.

• Joy-Con Grip, made to fit the standard Nintendo Joy-Con Grip for both Switch 1 and 2 systems.

• Joy-Con, made to work with the Switch 1 Joy-Con rail design, up to 4 controllers can slide on. To save on room, the arms are set up to fit the Joy-Cons in an alternating manner where analogue sticks face inwards for both pairs, and one set rotated 180° to avoid the trigger moldings from colliding. (see showcase photo above for example)

• Joy-Con 2, made to work with the Switch 2 Joy-Con extrusion design, up to 4 controllers can slide in. A future iteration may also include voids to insert magnets in for more stability, while the current design just uses gravity and walls around the extrusion for fitment. To save on room, the arms are set up to fit the Joy-Con 2s in an alternating manner where analogue sticks face inwards for both pairs, and one set rotated 180° to avoid the trigger moldings from colliding. (see showcase photo above for example)

Tops

• Standard, available in all Arm types, the main body terminates at a short level to allow room for the mounting pegs, and not waste too much filament.

• Amiibo, available in all Arm types, the main body goes high enough to clear the controllers for each arm type and has a recess for the standardized Amiibo base to add some personality to the towers.

Variants (Available for all Arm and Top options)

• Standard, just has the arms for the specified controller

• Headphone, adds a curved arm on the rear to hang a set of headphones, cables, or scrunchies for the follically blessed among us.

• Keyboard, adds a set of arms to the rear to act as a bounding box for keyboard storage. Opening for keyboard is 150mm wide and 50mm deep and was tested successfully with Logitech K400+ (smaller formfactor with built in trackpad) and Keychron K10-G3 (full size mechanical keyboard)

Assembly

All levels of the tower are intended to be secured with 4 Racker-Lock-Pins, 2 on the front typically on the inside or under the support arms, and two on the rear angled support fins. This will prevent any movement between levels and ensure a secure hold regardless of how high you decide to stack, while allowing you to remove the pins if you wish to reorganize your tower. The ring on the end of the pin can fit a 4mm Allen wrench for more leverage when pulling out, and can fit in either vertical or horizontal orientations internally, though obstacles on the outside of the print may force one orientation over an other.

If you can think of any other accessories, controllers, or improvements that could be made, please let me know and I'll try to incorporate what I can (though Printables notifications seem to elude me, so their may be a delayed response).