RAK WisMesh 1W Booster 2" ABS Pipe Enclosure

Attach the WisMesh starter kit to the front, two 18650 cells to the back, and slide it in to a 2" ABS pipe to get a weatherproof node you can easily mount anywhere!

BOM:

• About 12cm of 2" ABS pipe

• 2" ABS cap hub with a 5/8" hole drilled (for N-type antenna)

• 2" ABS female adapter hub x FIPT

• 2" ABS male plug MIPT with a 1/2" hole drilled

• PG7 cable gland (trim two corners off the backing nut to fit in the MIPT plug)

• 5cm N-type female to MHF1 bulkhead (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008877279360.html)

• 2x 18650 battery holders (wire in parallel, terminate with JST-PH female)

• 7x M2.5x3.5x4 heat-set inserts

• 5x M2.5x6 button head screws

• 2x M2.5x12 button head screws (if using antenna holddown, otherwise M2.5x8)

• IPEX connector clamp

  • https://www.printables.com/model/1560827-rak-13302-i-pex-connector-clamp

General instructions

1. Drill the 5/8" hole in the regular end cap, and chamfer the inside edge with a deburring tool to make your life easier later

2. Drill the 1/2" hole in the screw-on end cap, and mount the PG7 gland here to give you an entry point for USB or solar power.

3. Use some ABS cement to attach the female adapter hub x FIPT to one end of the 12cm pipe, and the regular end cap to the other end.

4. Install the heat-set inserts into the 3D printed midplate.

5. Screw the RAK baseboard into the part.

6. Connect the MHF1 to N adapter, then add the connector clamp and screw everything down to the midplate.

7. Stick your BLE antenna to the midplate and connect it to the NRF52 Wisblock.

8. Screw the 18650 battery mounts to the back of the midplate, connect to the RAK baseboard, and install your batteries. To prevent the module from transmitting at this point, you can put it into DFU mode. Remember to take it out of DFU mode once you have an antenna attached!

9. Run your solar or USB wire through the PG7 gland, and then connect it to the RAK baseboard.

10. Slide everything in to the ABS pipe, making sure the N connector comes through the top end cap. Screw the retaining nut on to the N connector.

11. Screw the bottom cap on, tighten the PG7 gland, and you're good to go!