April 26, 2022
Description
Normally I'd post a link to the stream where I designed this part, but unfortunately I didn't stream this one, so all you get is this link to my channel where I design thingslike this: https://www.youtube.com/c/ClarkSchaefer/videos.
Short and simple, it's a cup holder for your classically-trampolined Hobie cats with the lacing between two separate halves of the trampoline. I haven't designed it to accommodate coozies, but if there's demand I'm happy to modify this design and post it, probably as V4b or something.
4x M4x0.7-30 Flat head screws
4x M4x0.7 nuts (nut pockets deep enough for complete thread engagement with nylocks)
Istrongly suggest using 316 stainless hardware here. It is the most commonly available stainless that I'm aware of that has added molybdenum, which makes it considerably more rust resistant and genuinely stainless than most other common steel alloys.
Specifically, I will recommend the following McMaster part numbers: 91801A680 316 Stainless Steel Phillips Flat Head Screws 94205A230 316 Stainless Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut
Of course, whatever you find that's equivalent to this and cheaper is also good. I use Fastenal and my local Tacoma Screw for this sort of thing all the time.
It's a cup holder. it holds standard cans. The internal diameter is 2.65 inches.
Post your finished prints! There's few better things than seeing someone using and enjoying a thing you've designed, and of course if you think it's deserving feel free to like it/add it to a collection. I'm especially curious to see how the four overhangs by the nut pockets fare on other people's printers.
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
CR-10S
Rafts:
No
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
0.2mm
Infill:
I think 15%? You could probably get away with 8-10%.
Filament: Overture PLA White
Notes:
Pretty easy to print, I designed it to be. On this version (as compared to the prototype shown in photos above) I've changed a little bit of the geometry around the nut pocket to make it easier to get the nuts into position when clamping the thing down, which requires a little bit in the way of supports. Otherwise, by and large you can print this in the orientation that the STLs come in, with whatever your preferred settings are, and it'll come out just fine.
I just checked my old gcode for the prototype and my new gcode for this model, and they come out to 240 grams and 220 grams respectively. The first one is quite sturdy, and I expect most of the savings from this improved model come from reducing the extra material on the logo side and making the geometry around the line captures a little more sensible. (edit: nevermind, looks like I just had a bad print orientation on the first one which made a lot of extra support, the two should be very close in weight) The existing one is quite sturdy, and I expect the second one to be more of the same. If you decide to post a make, please consider including your final printed mass and your own evaluation of its sturdiness in case you think it needs improving. Thanks!License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike
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