Filament Cutter (3mm)

Redesigned for for 3mm filament and a 9mm blade end - as the original's 10mm doesn't seem common in the US. (10mm does not refer to the length of cutting edge, it refers to the perpendicular measure to the blade edge.)

Honestly, it's tough to love. This technique probably works MUCH better for 1.75mm filament, due to the thinner diameter. It takes a bit of finger strength to pop through 3mm filament, but if people want this, they can take advantage of my foray. Maybe PLA is easier than PETG, so that could be in your favor as well.

Changes to the base:

Enlarged hole from 1.75 to slightly more than 3mm (just in case there was extra leftover material on the filament being cut)

Moved hole closer to the cutter (the holes needed it, needed less room for the blade)

Made holes for the M3 screw head larger for ease of making.

Changes to the blade holder:

Made holes a little deeper and 5% wider - I had a screw break through the original.

I also used 20mm screws, as my local hardware stores only offers 20 or 10 mm length.

In case you are not looking at the original design:

2x M3 x 20mm screws

1x 7mm diameter spring, 17mm length - I used a C-612 utility comp spring (9/32 x 1-3/8 x .025), and trimmed it. Could probably be 15mm.

1x "end" of a 9mm cutting blade - the part at the end of the blade that you'd snap off last.

Assembly:

Insert blade into blade holder piece

Insert spring into base (the tip of the blade is going to push into the spring)

Put the two pieces together, then tighten the screws

Make sure that the blade cuts all the way through the hole - I found that cutting all the way through the filament was completely necessary. Likewise, you want to make sure the screws are not SO TIGHT, that the hole isn't completely open for the filament to pass through. The spring portion is probably the most key part of this model...otherwise the blade becomes stuck.

Category: 3D Printer Accessories