April 29, 2022
Description
These four object files are holders for 5 Pc. Set Up Gauges (a.k.a. height gages, measuring blocks, etc.), with the following standard sizes: 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2". The holders are free standing and peg board compatible (3" spacing on the peg board hooks). There are four object files because there are four variations of essentially the same holder:
"Original": the original design with more embellishments, and which is more sturdy, but uses more filament to 3-D print. Some of the photos show this version with the inset lettering filled with yellow paint to aid visibility.
"Original - No Lettering": same as above, but with no inset/embossed fractions lettering -- in case you don't want the lettering.
"Lite": The original design, but with fewer geometric embellishments, thinner hanging tabs and base, and larger, same font size, in-line lettering for the fractions. This version uses less filament and prints faster.
"Extra Lite": Thinner walls, hanging tabs and base than the Lite version, which uses even less filament and prints faster. The lettering passes all the way through the front wall/face, making openings that allow the reflection of the gauges to shine through.
Refer to the included photos for a better idea of the differences. There are photos of all of the versions 3-D printed, except for the Orig. - No Lettering (because I didn't print this version).
In case you don't read the Print Settings & Post Printing instructions....
Regardless of which version you print, I encourage you to print it standing up/vertical, AND to print at a finer resolution (.16mm or finer). This will make for a much better looking print. I tried printing at .2mm and with the object oriented on its back/horizontally. It didn't look good and it was a huge pain to remove the supports that filled each gauge cavity, especially the smaller openings. There will be some supports. Carefully clean out the supports in the lettering and those will look much better and be easier to read. Also, print with a brim or whatever build plate adhesion technique you find successful to reduce the warping/curling up of the base. It is likely that even with good build plate adhesion, the base will still bow up a bit on the ends.
If you have access to a table saw and a straight wood strip/board, you can still achieve a flat base that is square to the back by mounting the holder with its top flush with the straight side of the board. Make sure that it is secure (I used two screws, making sure that as I tightened them the holder remained flush with the board). On the table saw (or another equivalent) trim the warping out of the base on the bottom. The top of the holder and the straight side of the board run against the saw's fence which makes the saw blade cut the warped bottom parallel to the straight top. I included a photo of this jig after I made a cut. I wound up trimming all of the holders in the photos (because I like them to sit flat on a bench top).
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
Ender 5
Rafts:
Yes
Supports:
Yes
Resolution:
.16mm
Infill:
100%
Filament: Overture PETG Black
Notes:
Regardless of which version you print, I encourage you to print it standing up/vertical, AND to print at a finer resolution (.16mm or finer). This will make for a much better looking print. I tried printing at .2mm and with the object oriented on its back/horizontally. It didn't look good and it was a huge pain to remove the supports that filled each gauge cavity, especially the smaller openings. There will be some supports. Carefully clean out the supports in the lettering and those will look much better and be easier to read. Also, print with a brim or whatever build plate adhesion technique you find successful to reduce the warping/curling up of the base. It is likely that even with good build plate adhesion, the base will still bow up a bit on the ends.
It is likely that even with good build plate adhesion, the base will still bow up a bit on the ends. If you have access to a table saw and a straight wood strip/board, you can still achieve a flat base that is square to the back by mounting the holder with its top flush with the straight side of the board. Make sure that it is secure (I used two screws, making sure that as I tightened them the holder remained flush with the board). On the table saw (or another equivalent) trim the warping out of the base on the bottom. The top of the holder and the straight side of the board run against the saw's fence which makes the saw blade cut the warped bottom parallel to the straight top. I included a photo of this jig after I made a cut. I wound up trimming all of the holders in the photos (because I like them to sit flat on a bench top).
Category: Tool Holders & BoxesLicense:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
9
SteveJohnsen
