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Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 1
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 2
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 3
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 4
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 5
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 6
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 7
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 8
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 9
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 10
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 11
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 12
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 13
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Image 14
Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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Sidewinder X1 - Firmware flash helper (cut the display connection)

TheGooNie avatarTheGooNie

April 29, 2022

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Description

This is an adapter for cutting the connection between TFT display and mainboard allowing to flash the firmware without issues and without having to unplug the cable each time on the Artillery Sidewinder X1.

The DIP switch can be reached from outside of the case through the ventilation louver, with a screwdriver for example.

The whole constructions is made from two parts: The main, connector / switch and the printed part. The connector / switch is little bitfor more advanced and experienced users due to the electronic parts that have to be crimped and soldered together.

This solution is meant to be used with the newer version of the connection cable that has four wires instead of the older one with the flat band cable. It would / should work also with the older flat band cable but haven't tested it and probably needs smaller modifications on the printed part, there where this cable plugs into the connector of the adapter.

This switch should be used (changing on/off state) only if the printer is powered off! Change always the state of all four switches.

Attached is also the FreeCAD 0.18 file.

Print Settings

Printer:

Artillery Sidewinder X1

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2mm

Infill:

100%

Post-Printing

The PCB and the parts

I used a PCB like this on the diagram here (example: https://www.reichelt.de/punkt-streifenrasterplati-hartpapier-50x100mm-h25ps050-p23952.html?&trstct=pol_4) and cut a piece (the green dotted area) with the dimensions of about 15 x 10.5mm.

The DIP switch (red) has a size of 11mm (vertical direction on the diagram).

The male connector on the right side is a standard 90° 4 pin connector.

The female connector on the left side is a self made one because I could not find one with four pins of this kind ([1] UPDATE: I found something that could be suitable and make much less work! See below / on the bottom!). Maybe it is one of the most difficult parts of this solution.

I used a four pin 90° connector as on the right side and crimped the pins to the Dupont female pin terminal connector parts at the right position (plus soldering them because crimping alone is not strong enough in this case).

The adapter assembled

This is how it looks like from the side if the adapter is inserted into the printed part.

The Dupont connector on the right side would be the connector of the display cable.

Putting all together into the printer

For attaching the adapter to the frame of the printer, M3x25 screws, nuts (maybe better nylon lock nuts) and washers are needed. Also needed (as designed for my case) are two M3, 1mm thick washers. Maybe in your case you need slightly other thickness. I use nylon washers but it should also work with common metal ones.

The female Dupont connector on the left side of the photo above should be connected to the four pins on the inner side of the mainboard's display connector.

[1] Suitable connector for the mainboard side (female)

This is the right connector https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32734844912.html if you don't want to make one by your self. You have only to solder the right pins then (these would be the inner four pins; take care!).

Category: 3D Printer Parts

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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