April 30, 2022
Description
UPDATE 28/04/2017 Please ensure the lines are tensioned tight enough and check the tension every few prints, if you loose tension your print will fail a good simple test is pluck the fishing line if you hear a high C or high A you have sufficient tension in your fishing line and accurate printing, I found out by consequence with 3 failed prints.
I decided to upgrade the belt drives on my Geetech clone printer, So i trialed using fishing line instead of rubber belt drives.
I replaced my Y axis with a fishing line drive and the results are quite good, less jerk, and faster more stable print speeds.
To do this upgrade, you'll need the following
4 x 623ZZ bearings
2 x M3 20mm Screws
1 x M3 40mm Screw
1 x M3 65mm Screw
6 x M3 Nuts
6 x M3 Washers
Approx 5m of 40 to 80lb break line braid fishing line (must be braid, monoline has too much stretch in it)
Basically print all the parts, the parts for this upgrade does both X and Y, the long line tensioner is for the X axis. Press fit 2 bearings into each idler wheel, they are a tight fit, so you will need to use a vice to press them in. The Idler wheels will need to be printed in ABS for flexibility, Tensioners as well for the strength, all other parts can be printed in PLA.
Assembly of the tensioners is easy just make sure to fit a washer either side of the idler wheel bearing and use a drop of mineral oil to ensure things run smoothly. Make sure you fit the 40mm screw first and secure in place with an M3 nut.
The thumb screws have an M3 nut fitted into them this eliminated the need for using useless wing nuts. Don't print the thumb screw with support otherwise too much crap gets into the hole where the M3 nut sits and it wont grip anything.
To install the line tie a loop in one end, feed it thru the idler wheel, ensure you don't tangle the line up run the fishing line round the drive wheel bout 5 to 6 times, be careful on how you do this, if you don't do it correctly you will run into a world of hurt. Tie the other end off on the bed using a grinner knot. Whilst feeding the line thru you need to keep it as taught as possible, and the line tensioner on its loosest setting.
Once all secured start turning the thumb screw until the line is tightened and when you pluck the line it should sound similar to a stringed instrument, the reason for the 80lb break line is due to the amount tension the line will be under in the photo's you can see the Y axis tensioner at full tension. Just note whilst you increase tension move the axis your tensioning back and forth to keep the tension even on the entire length of the line.
I've also included a basic calibration print as well so you can re-calibrate your printer to the changes
Print Settings for the items
Thumb Screw x 2
Print in PLA
0.3mm Layer Height
No Support
No Raft
Idler Wheel x 2
Print in ABS
0.1mm Layer Height
No Support
Use Raft
Drive Wheel x 2
Print in PLA
0.3mm Layer Height
Use Support
No Raft
Line Tensioner (Y Axis)
Print in ABS
0.1mm Layer Height
No Support
Use Raft
Line Tensioner Long (X Axis)
Print in ABS
0.1mm Layer Height
No Support
Use Raft
Printer:
Geeetech Clone
Infill:
30%
Notes:
Individual Print Settings are in Description
Category: 3D Printer PartsLicense:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Share Alike
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