INTRODUCTION:
This is a replacement gummy worm gasket-mount case for the Kananic 82 keyboard. I designed it around the high-profile version. I am not sure whether it will work on the low-profile version.
In light of the CIY68, FL Esports MK870, and TM680, the Kananic 82 is no longer as desirable a budget option as it once might have been--particularly given the difficulty in finding keycaps to match its bizarre layout (e.g., 1.25u arrow keys, 1.5u escape key, etc.) I still like it though for its mod-ability. The plate extends beyond the PCB at the top and bottom, allowing for a partial gummy worm o-ring mount. (It is a partial gasket mount, as opposed to whole, because the space bar stabilizer wire juts out at the bottom, blocking the path of the gasket. The gasket thus needs to be split up into two segments.)
I've included two versions of the case: a whole-case version for people with larger build volumes (and who can print out the case in a single go), and a version divided into thirds for people with build volumes of equal to or less than 150mm.
INGREDIENTS:
- A Kananic 82. I used an old high-profile version. I am not sure whether the low-profile version will work.
- This 3d-printed case.
- Silicone gasket ring material, approximately 4.5 mm in diameter: one segment to run along the top of the plate, and two segments to run along the bottom. You will need about 500mm of gasket.
- Switches
- Keycaps
- [Optional] Case foam, plate foam, tape, PE foam, etc.
INSTRUCTIONS:
- The Kananic 82's cord is enveloped within case plastic, so you will need to dremel or cut away the plastic to remove the cord. Take care not to cut into the cord. PLEASE USE THE APPROPRIATE PROTECTION WHILE DOING SO, INCLUDING EYE PROTECTION.
- Unscrew the six screws on the top of the Kananic 82's plate, which hold the plate/pcb assembly to the case.
- Remove the plate/pcb assembly. You will need to gently prise it out of the case. (See Taekeyboard's excellent video on the Kananic 82 to get an idea of how to remove the plate/pcb.) You might need to use a keycap puller to lever out the assembly. Also, take care not to rip the cord out of the bottom case, where it is affixed by screws.
- Unscrew the two screws holding the cord to the bottom case. Free the cord from the case.
- 3d print the case posted here.
- Feed the cord through the usb cutout in the 3d-printed case.
- Place case foam, if desired.
- Cut the gasket material to size and place in between the plate and pcb at the top and bottom of the case. (The sides do not use any gasket material.)
- Once the gasket material is in the right place, lower the assembly into the 3d printed case. This can be somewhat finicky, because the gasket material might fall out on one side of the assembly while you are lowering the other side into the case.
Category: Electronics
Roger Arbogast
