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Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Image 1
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Image 2
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Image 3
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Image 4
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Image 5
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Image 6
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6

Rat Rig V-Core 3 Z rod/lead screw stabilizers

ivan5rov avatarivan5rov

May 2, 2022

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Description

Update 2022-06-23: V-Core 3.1 Support

New rear Stabilizer added to accommodate recent V-Core 3.1 re-design. Left and right could be reused between 3 and 3.1 - just swap them L→R and R→L (3.1 moves linear rails to the back of the front extrusion). Arms now updated to host JST connector for easier wiring. 

Order of installation is JST socket with soldered wire first, then trim wire long enough to solder the ends. Leave 10-20mm extra to make soldering microswitch leads easier, the excess wire can be coiled up in the area above the microswitch. Depending on your setup (NC/NO), pay attention which two of the 3 leads of the switch you're soldering to. 

To fish the cable inside the part, use a piece 0.3 - 0.4mm thick fishing line, makes the process very easy. To make JST socket fit flush in the space, trim the leads about half way trough or bend them 90 degrees sideways before soldering the wire to them. To avid plastic case melting, plug a connector with terminals installed (spare fan for example) in the JST socket - this will help dissipate heat and keep leads straight. Pull the wire from the other end gently as sockets go in place. Apply a dab superglue to the sides of the socket, carefully not to overdo this! Once in - support the socket for few seconds to allow supperglue to settle in and keep it in place. 

The little lids (the rectangular flat parts) are to cover the openings where the microswitch terminals are to be soldered and make part look nicer/cleaner. Friction mount - they snap in place and blend with the part. Barely noticeable once fit.

Update 2021-11-26: V.2.1:

Minor tweaks on the front arms for better fitment of the lead screws: depending on microswitches used (lever/no lever) V2.0 may have the bearing too high and just partially engaging on the lead screw. Note non-lever microswitch is recommended for the rear mount to ensure proper clearance with the undercarriage of the toolhead. If you got switches with levers - better carefully remove/break off the lever.

Update 2021-11-22: V2.0:

Redesigned stabilizers to move away from the slide on mount design to a sturdier mount direct to the 3030 extrusion.

Added provisioning for emergency stop in the arms to allow for halting the printer in case either Z axis decides to go above zero point.

Setup allows for using larger cooling mods such as 7530 or dual 5015 without concerns of losing additional Y movement

Removing V1.0 from the post.

Update 2021-09-19: V1.0

I noticed the Z screws would start whipping, sometimes quite violently when bed is moving especially when it surpasses 250mm mark, for 500mm printers like mine, near the bottom, the whipping is quite strong and if you're moving the bed at higher speeds, it feels like it will rip these apart! So I put together a "slide-on" stabilizers to hold the top end of the lead screws stable. The mounting design is inspired by Spiro Argyros's anti wobble solution for V-Core 3 printers, which addresses the whipping problem as well. Since offsets for the wobble rings mounts are different, I ended up creating them from scratch, and altered the way stabilizer mounts to the linear rail to ensure it stays securely in place. It should fit all V-Core 3 printer sizes (300/400/500), but depending on how close you mounted the linear rails to the top of the frame, it might be challenging to install. Worst case scenario, re-position the rail slightly downwards to ensure enough clearance to slide in the stabilizers.

Printing recommendations - 0.45 width, 0.2 layer hight, 9 top and bottom layers, 4 perimeters, 25% infill for strong part.

You will need 3 bearings 8x22x7mm (608ZZ) to insert into the stabilizers for smooth and frictionless operation of the lead screws. 

Since this mod constrains the leadscrew at the other end as well - it is highly recommended to run some de-coupling solution at the arms such as wobble rings. Constrains can easily be turned into stabilizers by replacing the bearings with blanks with OD 22mm and ID 10mm.

Print Settings

Printer: Rat Rig V-Core 3/3.1

Rafts: No

Supports: No

Resolution: 200

Infill: 25

Post-Printing =============

To avoid supports, part has 'sacrificial layer' added on the opening for the bearing to trick the slicer to do a bridge there. Simply use exacto-knife to clear this layer

 

If you like my work - you can buy me a coffee :)

Category: 3D Printer Parts

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution

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