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Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 1
Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 2
Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 3
Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 4
Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 5
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Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 7
Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 8
Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 9
Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Image 10
Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
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Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
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Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Thumbnail 7
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Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus 3D Printer File Thumbnail 10

Phaetus Dragonfly BMO + 5015 + ADXL345 for Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus

Jan avatarJan

May 25, 2022

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Description

I've tried many printed end effectors for my heavily modified Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus, but none really worked for me, so I decided to make my own.
This model lets you use the rigid mount of your Phaetus Dragonfly BMO (just unscrew the groove mount). 
I've been printing with this design for many hours at this point, so I feel comfortable sharing it.


Features:
After trying many fully printed designs I decided to use the stock aluminum plate as a base, for the added rigidity.
You will still be able to use the stock probe, without any X or Y offset.
I added two holes for an optional ADXL345 sensor, to be able to use Input Shaper in Klipper.
There's a ring on the left side where you can put a zip tie for strain relief.


Print Settings
Print it with PETG or ABS (PLA should be fine too, but I wouldn't recommend it)
0.2mm layer height
At least 50% infill (I used 85% gyroid)
Supports on build plate only (look at the slicer image)

Hardware: 
M3 screws
1x PC4-01 fitting
4x Brass inserts M3x4.6x4.0 (MxDxL, M=nominal diameter, D=outer diameter, L=length)
1x 3010 fan
1x 5015 fan

Assembly:
- Press in the brass inserts in the four holes at the bottom
- Start screwing in the M2 screws that came with the Dragonfly in the 4 holes at the top until they barely stick out from the bottom. Keep in mind that these holes are tight on purpose, to increase rigidity.
- Remove the groove mount and insert the Dragonfly from the bottom. If the screws stick out a little bit, it becomes quite easy to align it by feel. The heat cartridge and thermistor wires should go toward the back.
- Secure the hotend in place by screwing all the way in all four screws from the top.
- Screw the PC4-01 fitting by hand until it's tight and then finish with a wrench. This is supposed to be tight too.
- Put in place the fans and screw them in using any M3 screw that fits. 
- Install the optional ADXL345 sensor
- Bolt in the stock aluminum plate from the bottom, here you can use the stock screws. Don't forget to add the metal plate if you're planning to use the stock probe.
- Install the fan duct, paying attention not to damage the hotend wires.
- Now you can install the whole assembly in the printer, like you would with the stock one.


In the files I included a slightly modified fan duct I found on Thingiverse to make it fit around the heatblock, but feel free to use any other one that fits. 
Original: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3564725

For those interested:
- The fan guard is a scaled down version of: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4222437
- Flying Extruder: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4856524

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution

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