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Prusa MINI Linear Rails MGN12 - Y Axis 3D Printer File Image 1
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Prusa MINI Linear Rails MGN12 - Y Axis

6d6178 avatar6d6178

December 31, 2024

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Description

This is a remix of the Prusa MINI Y Axis Linear Rails Mod by Ryper3D that I re-created from scratch from the original Prusa MINI Printable Parts with the following differences:

  • Clean and pleasant aesthetic. No personal logos, crazy lines, and colors. Enjoy an aesthetic that looks like it could be a stock part.
  • Multiple front plate designs. Whether you like it plain, with hexagons, with Prusa Mini logo, or with functional attachment options for cameras and lighting, there is a version for you.
  • Multiple rear plate options. Two versions with and without attachment grid for accessories.
  • Higher clearances for the MGN12 rail mounting hole positions to account for cutting inaccuracies.
  • STEP files available for easy remixing, including a model of the full assembly for reference.
  • Elaborate documentation and detailed step-by-step assembly instructions. 
    A lot of effort went into making this project accessible with a lot of up-front questions answered, detailed parts list with tested sourcing links, and illustrated instructions that cover every single step of disassembling the Y-axis and re-assembling it with linear rails.

 

FAQ

  • Does this work with the MINI+?
    Yes. But you have to print an older version of the Display Box (or this one with USB) because the injection molded front plate of the MINI+ uses a different display mount.
    Alternatively, you can use @Waschtl's Front Plate Remix that works with the injection molded display box.
     
  • Is it better than stock? 
    I have noticed that the Y movements are a noticeably quieter and it overall feels much sturdier. The crazy noises that the printer can make during faster diagonal moves are gone, based on my experience. Multiple people have commented in their Makes that this mod made their printers quieter.
    There is no quantitative data on this and the observations are entirely subjective.
     
  • Will this affect Input Shaping?
    Theoretically, yes. However, I've been using Input Shaping with this printer since the feature was released and have had no negative experiences. 
     
  • Does it pass the XYZ self test?
    Yes. It passes the full self test.
     
  • Is this compatible with the Prusa Mini Base by David Warboss?
    Yes! Check out this Make by Tobi3107.
     
  • Is this compatible with my Z-axis stabilizer brace?
    Maybe not as it might interfere with the MGN12C blocks. However, you can use this Z-axis brace that is compatible and tested. Scroll all the way down to the “Compatibility with Other Mods” section for more info on which mods may or may not be compatible.
     
  • Can I use MGN12H blocks instead?
    You can use an MGN12H block for the right rail. The two blocks on the left rail must be MGN12C in order to ensure the right amount of Y travel

 

Bill of Materials

QtyDescriptionSourcing
2MGN12 linear rail 280mm with MGN12C blockAliexpress
1Additional MGN12C blockAliexpress
6M3x8mm Socket Heat Cap ScrewAliexpress
4M3x10mm Socket Head Cap ScrewAliexpress
5M3 Nyloc NutsAliexpress
8-16(Optional) Heat Set Inserts M3 D5.0 L4.0 (Voron standard) 
for “Backpack” or “Fannypack” plates
Aliexpress

All sourcing links have been tested by myself.

Linear Rail Specs

The rails should have a total length of 280mm and a hole spacing of 25mm. The rail must be symmetrical so that the distance from the last hole to the end is equal on both sides. Up to 2mm cutting error is still okay.

If you have difficulty sourcing a 280mm rail can buy a 300mm rail, which should be easier to source, and cut 10mm off each end with a Dremel cut-off wheel or other suitable tool.

 

Printed Parts

QtyPartNotes
1Fit Test.stl (optional, recommended)Print this first to test the fit of the MGN12 rails
1Y Plate Front *.stl6 designs available
1Y Plate Rear *.stl2 designs available
1Y Belt Holder.stlModified part to accommodate shifted belt path
1Y Idler.stlUnmodified original R6 part (you can use your existing one)
1Z-Axis Brace (optional)A Z-axis brace that is tested and confirmed compatible with this mod.

Front Plate Versions

Choose a front plate based on your preferences. The “Fannypack” versions have a 20x20mm grid using M3 threads (use heat-set inserts, see BOM) to attach accessories such as webcams, lighting, etc. You will have to design your own accessories or adapters.

Note: These front plates are made for the older printable Display Box of the Prusa Mini. If you're looking for front plates that work with the injection molded Display Box that came with the Mini+ check out @Waschtl's alternative front plates.

 

Rear Plate Versions

Choose between a plain rear plate or one with a “Backpack”. The “Backpack” version has a 20x20mm grid (same as “Fannypack” font plate) with M3 threads (use heat-set inserts, see BOM) to mount accessories to the back of the printer, such as buck converters, relays, etc. You will have to design your own accessories or adapters.

 

Printing

These parts require a well calibrated printer. Over extrusion might make it difficult to install the MGN12 rails. Print the “Fit Test.stl” file first to find out if you need to calibrate your printer or filament settings. Do not use warped parts.

Recommended Settings

  • 0.4mm nozzle
  • 4 or more perimeters
  • 0.4mm extrusion width (0.45 should work too bit not tested)
  • 30 to 40% infill
  • 5 top and 5 bottom solid layers
  • PETG or better

Part Orientation

All STL files are pre-rotated to the correct orientation for printing.

Assembly Guide

Preparation (important!)

  • Install the 2nd MGN12C Block on one of the rails.
    If you have one rail with an MGN12H block, make sure to install the 2nd MGN12C block on the rail with the MGN12C block. Carefully transfer the block from its storage carrier rail onto the rail without losing any of the ball bearings.
     
  • Clean and re-grease the linear rail blocks and guide rails. 
    There are various video resources online on how to do this. You must flush out any factory debris and storage grease using solvents and then re-lubricate. This is best done with the blocks installed on the rails to avoid losing any ball bearings.
     
  • Inspect your parts and make sure they look great and aren't warped. 
    Do not use warped parts as it may cause misalignment of the rails. Reprint if necessary.
     
  • Test if the MGN12 rails fit all the way in to the plates. 
    If you have printed the Fit Test then they should fit just fine. If not, check your parts for warped corners again. If they are not warped you can use a file to widen the opening just enough so the rails can be inserted all the way.
     
  • Insert an M3 Nyloc nut into the Y Front Plate where the display will be attached. 
    This can't be done after assembly so do this first.
     
  • Install heat-set inserts.
    If you use any of the “Backpack” or “Fannypack” versions of the font or rear plates, insert all the heat-set inserts. This is easier to do now than after the assembly.

Disassemble The Stock Y-Axis

Step 1

Remove the display.

Step 2

Remove the spring steel sheet and then undo the 9 bed screws and remove the heat bed PCB.

Step 3

Remove the Y-idler / belt tensioner from the front plate and disengage the belt from the Y-motor pulley.

Step 4

Remove the front plate by loosening the 4 M5 screws at the font.

Step 5

Slide the Y-carriage off the linear rods.

Step 6

Pull the linear rods out of the rear plate. Then undo the 4 M5 screws at the back and remove the rear plate.

Step 7

Detach the Y-axis motor from the rear plate by removing the 3 M3 screws.

Step 8

Remove the linear bearings from the Y-carriage by loosening the 6 M3 screws that hold the bearing clips.

Step 9

Take note of how many teeth of the belt are inside the belt holder on each side. Mark it with a marker or take a photo for reference so you can later re-insert it the same way to avoid belt tensioning issues. 

Then remove the belt from the belt holder.

Step 10

Remove the belt holder form the Y-carriage by loosening the two M3 screws that hold it in place.

Set the belt holder aside as to not confuse it with the new belt holder.

Re-Assemble the Y-Axis with Linear Rails

Step 1

Install the Y-axis motor on the rear plate with 3 M3x12mm screws with the motor cable facing down.

Step 2

Fasten the rear plate to the 3030 extrusions using 4 M5 button head cap screws.

Do not fully tighten the screws yet. Leave them a bit loose so that the parts can move. We'll tighten them later.

Step 3

If you skipped this step in the assembly preparation instructions, here's another reminder. 

Insert an M3 Nyloc nut into the front plate where the display will be attached.
Use a temporary screw from the other side to pull the nut all the way in if necessary.

Step 4

Push the linear rails into the rear plate. The rail with two blocks should be on the left.

Step 5

Fasten the front plate onto the 3030 extrusions using 4 M5 screws.

Do not fully tighten the screws yet. Leave them a bit loose so that the parts can move. We'll tighten them in the next step.

Step 6

Make sure that the printer stands on a completely flat surface.

Then, while applying some light pressure on the both rails from the top, fully tighten all 8 M5 screws on the front and back plates.

Step 7

Install the Y-carriage on the linear rail blocks using 6 M3x8mm screws. Use holes closer to the front and rear plates on blocks on the left rail. on the right rail it doesn't really matter.

Leave the screws slightly loose and move the carriage back and forth to ensure proper alignment. Then fully tighten them.

Play around until everything runs smoothly.

Step 7.1

If you can't get the rail to slide smoothly with the carriage installed, experiment with slightly loosening or completely removing some of the screws marked with green circles.

The screws marked with blue circles, however, are mandatory and should be fully tightened.

 

Step 8

If you're using a new idler and have not yet assembled it, refer to the manual on how to assemble it.

Thread the belt through the Y-axis idler / belt tensioner. Remember to install the belt in the same direction was it was before so that your makings match when installing the belt holder later.

The revision number (e.g. “R1” ) on the back of the part should be up.

Step 9

Install the belt in the new belt holder. Remember to use your makings or reference photo and insert the same number of teeth into the holder as before to ensure that the belt length remains unchanged.

Install the belt so that the open side of the holder is facing to the right. The image shows where the idler (front) and the motor (rear) are to help you orient the part correctly.

Make sure to use the newly printed belt holder, not the one you took off during disassembly.

Step 10

Flip the printer over and install the belt holder on the Y-carriage with 2 M3x12mm screws. Remember, the open side of the belt holder should be facing to the right, towards the rail with the single block.

Flip the printer back on its feet.

Step 11

Engage the belt with the Y-axis motor pulley.

Then, using 2 M3x20mm screws, install the Y-axis idler on the front plate. Tighten the screws evenly and just enough so that the belt won't fall off the pulleys.

You will tighten the belt to final tension later. 

Step 12

Try to wiggle the linear rails. 

If the rails don't move and sit completely tight in the slots of the front and rear plates you may skip this step. But you can also do it anyway.
If there is movement don't skip this step.

Use 4 Nyloc nuts and 4 M3x10mm screws to fasten the linear rails to the front and rear plates. Do this on all 4 corners.

It may be a bit difficult to hold the nut in place. A pair of needle nose pliers can help.

Step 13

Reinstall the heat bed on the Y-carriage with the 9 countersunk screws.

Step 14

Adjust the Y-axis motor pulley to ensure a straight belt path. Refer to the official instructions for details.

Step 15

Follow the official instructions by Prusa to tension the belt to the final tension.

Step 16

Reinstall the LCD using the M3x20mm screw.

Congrats!

The modification is now complete.

Reattach the spring steel sheet and run a selftest.

 

Compatibility with Other Mods

To figure whether a mod will be compatible you must understand the dimensional changes.

The overall dimensions of the font and back plates are unchanged. However, the MGN12C blocks and rails are wider than the smooth rods and bearings. For this reason the belt path had to be moved 3.53mm to the left so that the block doesn't collide with the motor.

Mods that attach to the Y-axis extrusions should give about 1mm of clearance on the sides and bottom of the MGN12C blocks.

On the left, the MGN12C block protrudes 3.5mm beyond the Y plates.

Potentially Incompatible Mods

  • Mods that are mounted to the top of the Y aluminum extrusions, such as some Z-axis stabilizers. These must potentially be changed to clear the path of the MGN12C blocks.
  • Alternative belt tensioners
  • Alternative belt holders

 

Remix Sources

  • Prusa MINI upgrade hiwin Linear rails (Y mod) MGN12 by Ryper3D (Creative Commons 4.0 International
    Attribution-NonCommercial)

This remix source is listed independently because it is mis-licensed (actual license is GNU GPL v3) and this project can not be saved under the correct license because the remix source's license is incompatible with the correct license.

License:

GNU General Public License v3.0

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