Raspberry Pi Pico case for ADXL345 accelerometer using Cat5e Cable

To use an ADXL345 (possibly similar), and a Raspberry Pi Pico as an input shaper for Klipper systems as a secondary MCU.

Programming settings, and wiring were pulled from NERO 3D and the following video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_VHbT_tsZw

“Hey Nero 3D hope you can see and try this!”

This is a remix of the following:

https://www.printables.com/model/163999-pi-pico-case-for-input-shaper-tuning

I really like the model, but I wanted to be able have the following:

-to use zip-ties to secure the cable inside and out, as this could be used on several printers, and to have the cable restrained

-be able to standard Cat5e Ethernet cable as the main wiring

Design:

I was able to upload the original parts in the Fusion 360 and convert mesh.

pipicocase_bottom

-redesigned the USB opening to be tighter fit

-height increased by 0.5mm to help with USB redesigned

-length increased by 5mm to include space for a zip-tie

-changed cable port diameter to 5.2mm found on Cat5e cables (please note Cat6 has a larger diameter, and these parts could be sanded out, but may lose access to zip-tie, tie down)

-added a spot internally for a zip-tie (1.80mm width, 0.85mm thickness)

pipicocase_top

-length increased by 5mm to include space for a zip-tie

-changed the geometry for the part that holds down the board, and the zip-tie head (found the original design covered pin 20, and 21 freed them up in case this is used for other projects)

-changed cable port diameter to match bottom

-add 0.5mm required from the bottom adjustment

-rounded some of the corners

pipicocase_button

-unchanged the 0.5mm height change still gave enough clearance for the button to function

-uploaded for completion

Print Settings:

It was printed in a spool of white to red transitional ABS from Replitech (https://replitech.ca) at a layer height of 0.2mm, no support, no cooling. I used settings for print my Voron parts 40% infill, 5 top/bottom, and 4 walls/perimeters, as this was already set in my slicer.

**my zip-tie hole was very tight and needed pliers to pull through, so PLA may be an easier print with part cooling

Assembly:

-1 zip-tie internally to hold Cat 5e cable secure after all solder and wiring

- 4 x M2 x 10mm coarse thread screws

- 1 zip-tie externally (optional) I found I did not need one