CR-10S Pro Direct Drive Bracket With Sensor Mount

Migrating from thingiverse

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3807893

Remix of dcgoalie98's Direct Drive Bracket, which is a remix Remix of Lujes' Direct Drive Bracket

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3767702

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3609757

was not going to convert to a direct drive, but was trying to print 5 X polypanels-triangle at the same time, all at once mode, and the number of retraction was making the filament a bit flat, which was making it harder to go through the tube, which was making the filament to bend slightly as the printing was progressing. the bend was getting worst and worst, and at around 50% print, was so hard to push in, that the stepper was skipping!!

this was in tern making the retaining clip inside the Pneumatic Connectors/fitting to dig into the capricorn/bowden/PTFE tube, which was cutting it, and making it loose, and was introducing more play...

anyway, things changed in this remix,

Extended the bracket to mount the Filament Sensor,

Offset the back screw hole by 1.5mm because it was not alligning properly on my printer.

Added a hole to allow the installation of the screw for the spring. (i installed the spring after mounting the pivoting arm )

moved the cable tie point to fit

rotated it to the best possible print orientation.

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pictures are of the v1.0 ( the filament from the sensor to the drive was off by around 1mm, fixed this in the v1.1 which is uploaded here, but i have not printed the new v1.1 yet)

i used M3 12mm screws, instead of the 10mm, and using additional washers .

since the stepper motor can get over 55 °C, i would NOT use PLA for this. i used PETG, but ABS should also be good.
also, use "Support Everywhere"

extended the stepper motor cable, and the filament sensor cable.
also cut the capricorn/bowden/PTFE tube to fit, dcgoalie98 suggested 88mm.

***20190910 just upgraded to a Micro Swiss hotend, PTFE or Capricorn tube length is 58mm

hardware used
3 X M3 12mm screws
4 X M3 washer
1 X M3 lock nut

using 2mm retraction @ 80mm/s as per Lujes' testing and suggestion.

remember to reduce "coasting" if enabled before.

only disadvantage is because the cables are sitting on top of the lever, pressing it to put/remove filaments is a but harder because my finger can only press on 1/2 of the lever

freecad 0.18 file also included
fasteners workbench addon required
the M3 threaded hole are not made yet,
just have to do a boolean cut between the main body and the 4 screws and it will be the same as the stl.

FYI, after doing this, i saw that.
the other option would have been to mount the filament sensor on top of the frame , same as what dsudweeks56 did
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3665760

use "Support Everywhere", not just Touching everywhere.