March 26, 2020
Description
I use a lot of Nylon for my combat robot prints and thus I needed an enclosure to prevent warping. I wanted something simple, lightweight and removable, and with an easy to access door. I ended up using 80/20 hinges for the door, and acrylic which I lasercut for every single panel. All panels are joined using 3D printed brackets and 1/4-20 x 3/8 screws. It's a bit floppy with 1/8" (3mm) acrylic but it definitely gets the job done and looks good too! (https://bit.ly/Qt20Screw)
I've included the Fusion files for the brackets, DXFs for al laser cut panels, and here is a link to download the entire CAD model for the full enclosure if you wish to modify it. https://a360.co/2WJzDTU
Be careful with the screws, do not over-tighten or it will crack acrylic or polycarbonate. I made that mistake with one panel. Oops...
I also designed a spool holder that takes 1-inch PVC pipe, but I generally print out of a DIY dry box so I don't really use it. I modeled some 1/4-20 to straight shank pegs and tried using those on the spool holder bottom to make it hot-swappable, but the thing will lean to one side unless there are two roughly balanced spools on it so I recommend just screwing it to the top panel if you want to use it.
Check out my Youtube channel to see what I've done with it! http://bit.ly/JustCuzYoutube
All printed components need sufficient walls and small enough layer height for the printed threads to be usable, so I'd go with .1-.15 layers and 3 or 4 walls. Infill is less important, >15%. All parts print with no supports.
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
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