I designed this Bluetooth speaker in the Fall of 2020. I am NOT an audio engineer, nor did I have much knowledge about what I was doing from an acoustics point of view. But it still turned out great and sounds amazing. There is no build guide, but the photos show a lot of how the speaker goes together and most of it is self-explanatory. I added some build notes below and a BOM which doesn't include screws, wires, connectors, etc., but has all major components.
I planned to revisit this model and release a better version. However I have at least a year's worth of projects in front of me, so I thought I would release my first version and hopefully get some feedback before starting the next version. I'd appreciate any advice on a Bluetooth/amp module and speaker setup.
The main body is large, it is 280mm long and is best printed on its back with the hole for the power supply touching the bed. Supports are needed for the rim where the back plate screws into. It could be printed standing up, but it would require a lot of support structure. The walls are purposely very thick for sound dampening.
I built my own battery pack, a materials list is included in the components section above.
The speaker in the photos is printed in Hatchbox Wood PLA for all exterior pieces, the speaker plate was PETG, but PLA should be fine
It uses almost a full roll of 1kg filament.
I used a pretty heavy infill, I can't recall, but I'm sure it was 30%+
The front speaker plate is glued into place; I used silicone after to seal any gaps around the plate and the speakers.
The front decorative plate is held on with double-sided gel tape which can be removed if needed to access the speakers, link above for the tape I used.
Pretty much anywhere bolts (screws) go into plastic, there should be a heat insert needed (see photo).
You can see from the pics, there were holes on top for a battery level indicator. I removed them from this version.
The rear ‘rubber’ seal should be printed in TPU.
I lined the inside of the speaker with adhesive-backed foam tape… I have no idea if this helps, but it makes it look like I know what I'm doing.
There is a 12V power switch on the top. I didn't include wiring schematics on here, but you can Google ‘Bluetooth speaker wiring diagram’ and find one with the same components and use that.
I can't recall the sizing for the screws, but I believe they are all M3s, I keep an assortment of M3 screws in my shop of varying lengths, often from kits bought on Amazon.
Printing - For the body, turn up your wall thickness (you don't want to sand through your perimeter when sanding down the layer lines), I think I went 10+ perimeters or more, look at the pic of my body printing, and you can see how thick the walls are and how high the infill is. I used the same high perimeters for the front face, which was actually a mistake. I can see the outer walls on the front face. I would either go with fewer perimeters on all the layers or fewer layers on the top perimeter if your slicer has that setting, at least for that one piece, anyway. The important thing to remember is to ensure you have thick walls anywhere you will need to sand. I believe I used a palm sander to make short work of the flat areas.
Reach out if you have any questions, and I'll do my best to respond with a helpful answer,
Creative_Bear3D
