Meshtastic T-Echo Compact Case: New V3

Printing/printed this? I'd like to hear from you! Seriously! Message me on my discord/telegram/printables!

20240611: New V3 version! Many great changes:

• Better button protection, no more accidental presses
• Better back design, locks-in tightly without screws
• Far stronger, much more material inside around the display
• Easier printing, no support needed on the main Body part

Here's my enclosure for the neat e-paper LILYGO TTGO T-Echo device. 

• Works great for Meshtastic firmware: about page here
• Works great for SoftRF firmware: github page here

The T-Echo comes ready-to-go in a cute case. But! It's bulky, hard to mount to anything, and the buttons are too easy to press inadvertently!

Here's my solution:

✅ Features

• It's perfectly form fitting, any extra space is carefully left just to allow easy install. 
• Integrated carabiner clip.
  • Supports full sized 10mm wide climbing carabiners!
  • Perfect for clipping to a backpack on hikes
• Just 15mm thin, great for easy pocketablity!
• Just 3 parts to print
  • Main body is 90% of the enclosure!
  • Cap just convers the rear back, similar to the original case
  • Buttons is a single part that adds the pushbuttons similar to the original case
• Optional parts for extra credit
  • Display STL, print this in clear PETG and glue into place for more durability and better a seal against dust and water
  • Gasket is for printing in TPU and sealing the rear hatch as well!

⚠ Hardware needed: and WARNING

The PCB has 3mm holes, so I designed it to take M3 bolts. 

BAD. The PCB has capacitors and an LED right up against where a metal M3 bolt touches and will short out and kill the GPS. ♂

So yeah my GPS is børked. 

For anyone else either:

1. Use the tiny M2 bolts that come with your T-Echo to hold-in the PCB or
2. Use nylon M3 bolts like I now do (after tapping the holes)

I used M2 wood/plastic screws for holding on the back. Alternatively you can carefully use the original machine screws but know that they'll more easily strip unless you install heat-set-inserts into the body first. 

Printing

1. Print body, cap, and buttons in a rigid filament. 
   • I use HTPLA+. It's super durable, rigid, easy to print.. Best of all worlds. 
   • PETG is great!
   • PLA is great .. but can soften when left in direct sun in a hot place. 
2. Optional:
   1. Gasket in TPU
   2. Display in clear PETG. See this youtube video about transparent FDM printing for how!
      Basic settings for transparency
      1. 15 mmps
      2. Overextrude slightly. Set line width to 0.5mm for a 0.4mm nozzle, for example.
      3. 1 wall 
      4. 0 top & bottom layers
      5. 100% infil
         1. set Infill Line Directions to [0]
      6. Increase your flow value slightly
      7. Watch that video.
3. Send me a ping!
4. Post a make!

Installation

1. Disconnect the battery first. Never power up a radio system without antennas connected.
2. Remove and disconnect everything. All antennas and connectors disconnected.
3. Display & PCB installation
   1. Fit the buttons part into place. Make sure they move freely and clean the hole with an xacto knife if needed. Test installing the PCB and be sure the buttons click easily when pressed.
   2. Place display in case
   3. Install LORA antenna connector into housing with U.FL connector facing UP.
   4. Scoot the PCB into place under the display and LORA antenna cable. Don't bolt it down quite yet.
   5. Connect the lora U.FL connector
   6. Use tweezers/flat-head screwdriver to carefully connect the display ribbon cables. They don't insert as far as you'd expect! See the photo below. May want to hold the PCB in at an angle while doing this.
   7. Bolt down the PCB 
      1. Only use the original M2 wood screws!
4. Everything else!
   1. Slide in the GPS and connect it
   2. connect the NFC antenna and use it to hold the battery in place
   3. insert the battery and connect it
   4. and you're done!

Printing/printed this? I'd like to hear from you! Seriously! Message me on my discord/telegram/printables!