November 22, 2022
Description
I made some upgrades to my "garage all-in-one" smarthome device. So I had to make an updated enclosure for it. Here is the list of the parts I used in this project:
Wemos D1 Mini: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081PX9YFV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12mm 5V buzzer (add a small NPN transistor or fet to drive it at 5V): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7NHSY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
AMS1117 3v3 supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0778KR6FZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
MT3608 DC-DC boost supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081JJDD7J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
RCWL-0516 microwave motion sensor: https://www.amazon.com/RCWL-0516-Detection-Microwave-Detector-Distance/dp/B07MTWZDQZ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=MD3YKDT8XHET&dchild=1&keywords=rcwl-0516&qid=1585527400&sprefix=rcwl%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-2
BH1750 luminance sensor: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-GY-302-BH1750-Intensity-Illumination/dp/B00M0F29OS/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=bh1750&qid=1585187244&sr=8-1
BMS280 temp, humid, and pressure sensor: https://www.amazon.com/KeeYees-Temperature-Humidity-Atmospheric-Barometric/dp/B07KYJNFMD/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=bme280&qid=1585596248&sr=8-3
5W mini speaker: https://www.amazon.com/CQRobot-Speaker-Interface-Electronic-Projects/dp/B0822YL2L2/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=5w+speaker&qid=1585187457&sr=8-14
5V isolated relay: https://www.amazon.com/Youngneer-Raspberry-Arduino-Channel-Opto-Isolated/dp/B07M88JRFY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=arduino+relay&qid=1585596282&sr=8-3
You could do whatever you want with this combo of hardware. I program these things using esphome for homeassistant. In my case the sensors just report states to home assistant, the dfplayer/speaker provide mp3 voice notifications, and the beeper offers another form of audio feedback. I use the step up converter to provide 12V to an optional external rcwl0516 microwave motion sensor (this sensor needs to be mounted away from wires & metal).
The speaker, mbe280, and bh1750 go in the lid, the rest of the stuff goes in the main box. Except for the beeper, all of the devices are secured with melt down pins and PCB rails. Press the part onto the pins/rails, heat a bolt or screwdriver and melt the pins/rails down against the board to fix them permanently. The beeper is secured with a press fit. You can use a hot screwdriver or glue to secure them better if needed. Note that it is always easier to solder all wires to the boards first, before permanently mounting the boards in the box. After everything is wired up, the lid simply snaps into place.
The square hole on the left side is sized to fit the largest micro USB end I had on hand; it should fit most cords you might use. Wires for the rcwl & relay may pass through the 4mm holes located on the left, right, back, and/or bottom sides (note these 2 devices are best mounted away from the heat and interference emitted from the main enclosure). 2 access holes are placed on the front and rear of the box to access the MT3608 adjust pot and the wemos reset button. Another access hole in the back allows external access to the micro sd card for the dfplayer.
A side note on wiring... There are many ways to wire the power to all the devices. To maximize efficiency and reduce noise, connect the 5V pins from the wemos to the step up converter, relay power input, 3v3 regulator, beeper, and dfplayer (dfplayer always has 3v3 on the tx/rx pins, and it sounds better+louder at 5V input vs 3v3). Connect the 3v3 regulator to the lum and bme280 sensors. The RCWL gets 11V from the step up converter, and similar to the dfplayer it always puts out 3v3 on the output pin.
Resolution:
0.2mm
Infill:
25%
Filament: generic abs
Notes:
No supports required
Category: ElectronicsLicense:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
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