Circular parts cooling duct

UPDATED:

I realized that I really made the walls to thin, and the supports to small. So Ver2 corrects those issues, and I tried to make it easier to print at a standard 0.4 dia nozzle @ standard 0.2-layer height.

I've also included a STEP file for those who want to modify it more easily.

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I liked the idea from Muddy Cube (I actually had the idea in my head but decide to search to see if someone else had already done it, bingo), but found the minor issues of not being able to easily remove the silicone sock, and the air flow just wasn't quite right. 

The default ducting from Creality tends to literally blow my prints to the back of the printer, and Muddy Cube was close… but not quite right to my liking.

I'm not the greatest at manipulating STL files, so I ended up starting from scratch in Fusion3d and after many test prints, I have something I like (you may too). The main goals were:

1. Use existing parts. Check.
   I didn't want to go full modify with a complete redesign of the parts cooling. I just wanted to use the existing blower fan and mounting hardware.
    
2. Air flow on the parts. Check. 
   I used a glass of water filled to brim and lowered the print head down to see how the air flowed. It's a nice general but directed flow to the nozzle. 
   
   All my test prints no longer lean forward, backwards, left, or right. Just straight up. 
   
   I've also noticed an improvement in layer adhesion for some reason (compared to more directed nozzle designs). And my prints are at room temperature at the end.
    
3. Try not to restrict air flow. Half Check
   No matter what I tried, I still ended up restricting the air flow from the fan somewhat. The fan whines slightly more than the stock duct. But not by much.
    
4. Printer Maintainability. Check.
   I wanted to be able to get the silicone sock off and do nozzle changes. That is possible now, but you have to flick the sock off from the LEFT side, either with one of provided hex wrenches (not the smallest, but the next sizes up), or I use a set of hooked tweezers. 
   
   The heating block is somewhat blocked for a full size of plyers, but aftermarket heater block wrenches or a narrower set of plyers work. (Actually, I don't even use a set of plyers anymore, just heat to 220 Celsius and remove and lightly tighten nozzles).
    
5. No interference on prints. Check.
   I haven't had any printed parts hit the ring, yet.
    
6. No interference with printer parts. Fail.
   It does come in contact with the X-axis roller assembly. But it doesn't affect anything. Actually, it supports the rear part of the cooling duct.

As for printing: The final print was done in PLA with a 0.20mm nozzle with no supports lying flat on the print bed with Cura (sorry, but I'm more fluent with Cura than Prusa)

I haven't had an issue with PLA temperatures with “melting” the ring. I haven't done any higher temperature prints, yet. But I think the clearance is sufficient to allow high temperature printing, but upgrade to a higher melting point material if so desired.

The only downside I have found is that if you have a camera, it does block your view quite a bit. But that outweighs the nicer prints I have been able to produce.