December 19, 2022
Description
If you make one, please show us! Especially the dual hot end version please!
Cobblebot desperately needs a better hotend mount with fans and probe mounts. Here is version 1 I am working on based on the one made by satoer's E3D V5 hotend carriage. I really like this design and hope others will be able to use it, not just on the Cobblebot but any printer using 2020 rails should be able to use it. It uses the FelixE3DV5[fanduct[V2 (why reinvent the wheel?) but the heat sink doors were completely made from scratch around the hexagon.
BLTouch mount has been tested successfully. My Z offset was 1.5mm. Your mileage may vary. There are 3 BLTouch mounts of varying heights available to download.
THIS THING IS FUNCTIONAL AT THIS POINT. I have finished printing all the pieces and am now actively printing with it. The doors are very tight on the heat sink and will probably need to be heated enough to do a final form fit around yours.
UPDATE 2016/01/29: New carriage for dual extruder. No probe attachment. (yet)
Use M4 bolds and nuts to fit together. Use a piece of wire hangar for the hinge pin.
Cobblebot users: You will be able to mount the wheels from the original carriage onto this.
UPDATE 2016/03/24: Carriage V3_B moves the wheels across the rails 1.5mm closer together. The carriage should not be loose. I found V2 for me was just on, but the wheels wore down so that I couldn't make it tight enough. V3 fixes this.
UDATE 2016/04/05: I have put the BLTouch mount A back on and a new C also. Each one differs from the other by 1mm with the tallest to shortest being B, A, C respectively; in the case you have a longer/shorter pin or some other variation requires it.
BLTouch Configuration in Marlin v1.1.0-RC2 (there are changes in 1.1.0-RC4 Z probing that I haven't worked out yet. This config won't work on it. The print head will crash.)
Get the BLTOUCH HERE: http://store.timeshell.ca/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=50
Here is a link for guidance on getting the firmware to save the new autoleveling matrix: http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.php?8064-Saving-G29-Bed-Level-Correction-Matrix-to-EEPROM
In Configuration.h:
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
// Set these appropriately for the size of your printer
// These are set for my Cobblebot basic
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 15
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 250
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 20
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 250
// Set the number of grid points per dimension.
// You probably don't need more than 3 (squared=9).
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID_POINTS 4
Notes:
I print with a 0.4mm nozzle. And although I haven't done so, I believe I'd also recommend printing in ABS. So far I'm only printing in PLA but it seems to be holding up. I've printed a few things in ABS with it without any apparent problems. 22 hours into a print at 210°C and the PLA built version still going strong.
Incidentally, I tried making the carriage with ABS. I found the door mount to be very weak and broke easily. The PLA version seems to be much stronger. Your mileage may vary.
I recommend slicing with a thickness of 0.12mm, especially for the TS2020DoorMount.
Infill Recommendations:
TS2020Carriage 100%
TS2020DoorMount 15% or higher
TS2020DoorOpen 15% or higher
Fan Duct ?
TS2020Accessory 15% or higher
Right now I have to reheat the finished blocks with a heat gun to soften them to final form them around the heat sink as it is a very tight fit. I'm hoping to adjust the design enough that this won't be necessary.
I found an STL file of the hexagon hot end. I built blocks in 123D Design and subtracted the hexagon from them. Then I created shapes and subtracted them as necessary to create the form needed.
Category: 3D Printer ExtrudersLicense:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
7
Greg Nutt
