Back in 2019 I designed this consolized MVS for use with an MV1C arcade board complete with S-Video, Composite, Stereo Audio, and RGB out. The footprint is about the size of a Sega Dreamcast and prints great on a Prusa MK2/3 or similar sized bed. The back panel is modular and can be customized to fit whatever outputs you'd like. I originally had individual YPbPr connectors but later used a simple panel mount 9-pin Mini DIN for RGB out so I could use HD Retrovision cables. I'm proud of what I made back in 2019 but if I were to design this today I would have done several things differently.
I don't plan on doing a “how-to” but here is some info I do remember from the project:
- Power Switch https://a.co/d/iHdSdZh
- 5.5mm x 2.5mm DC socket (panel mount) https://a.co/d/63j3eG5
- S-Video (panel mount with nut) https://console5.com/store/s-video-jacks-panel-mount-black-plastic-housing-solder-type.html
- RCA jacks (panel mount with nut) similar to these but mine are color coded: https://a.co/d/cwa10LV)
- 9 pin mini DIN (panel mount) https://vetco.net/products/9-pin-mini-din-female-panel-mount-jack
- 2 x 15 pin, 2 row, male, solder cup DSUB for the controller ports, something like this: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Amphenol-FCI/DAP15P064TXLF?qs=%2F8yKYVhHRlYlqVuWYejqrA%3D%3D
- 4 shell screws were left over PS1 shell screws, so use those or something similar. Drill hole is 2.4mm in diameter.
- There are 7 M4 x 12mm screws with nuts. You really only need 5 nuts since the two back panel screws thread into the plastic. The front panel uses a nut to secure it to the base.
- There are 5 M2.5 x 8mm screws for the front and back panel.
- There are 2 M2.5 x 8mm screws for each controller port (total of 4 screws).
- Originally designed for a JROK RGB board but there's probably a more modern and better solution. MV1Cs output RGB and Sync but need resistors and caps to properly attenuate the signal for something like an OSSC.
- The SNK logo has an optional LED tray, which uses 4 3mm LEDs. You'll obviously need resistors depending on what voltage source you're using.
- Only 4 feet are really needed but you can print 2 more for the back panel M4 screws as well.
- All wiring is soldered right to the Jamma edge, so it's as permanent as that.
- My MV1C PCB was badly warped so I designed this shell to have some wiggle room with the PCB screw placement.
Humble Bazooka
