Parallel Guide To ACS/MFT Table Fence Conversion Kit

I had purchased a parallel guide for my Kreg tool ACS track. I was going to buy a fence system but realized the parallel guide already has a lot of features I needed but it needed a few pieces to be installed onto a ACS/Festool table. 

The parallel guide I bought is this one but it is similar to the TSO and Woodpecker parallel guide. This kit may work on some of those as well. You can print a few pieces to compare and see if they will fit.

https://usa.banggood.com/FONSON-Upgraded-Aluminum-Alloy-Parallel-Guide-System-for-Repeatable-Cuts-for-Track-Saw-Rail-Fit-for-Festool-Woodworking-Tools-Hook-Upgrade-p-1912623.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6298683

I realized that by mounting bench dogs under each section and inserting them into the holes of my extended ACS table I could convert it to a fence. A few more adjustments were needed to allow me to use the stops and I wanted a clear indicator of my measurements. I also wanted more support under the track for shorter pieces. My solution involves:

1. Lifting the stops to that when lowered they would be just on top of the table.
2. Added some measurement markers on the lifting blocks that would tell me my exact measurements on the scale already printed on the top and back side of the fence. I included one with-out the markers in case someone wants a simpler solution.
3. Added an extension of 7.5 inches at the end of the guide that goes under the track and that also is mounted on bench dogs to rigidity. Also have inserts to keep the extension locked into the end of the guide.
4. Added 3/4inch and 20mm bench dogs that can be mounted under each section of the guide to guarantee they are square to the track. 
5. Putting two of the bench dogs per section to make it extra rigid and avoid any movement.
6. I included 19mm and 20mm bench dogs for ¾ tops and also for 1-½ inch tops. 
7. Finally if you need extra strength there is a cap that can be added on the bottom of the bench dog bolts which can be used to clamp agains the bottom of the bench top using a ¼-20 knob. I didn't use it but I added it early incase I did.

With all these design features this worked out perfectly and most parts are relatively small.

The key to making and installing this kit:

1. I printed my parts in PETG but I'm sure PLA would work find also. I used 0.28 as my layer height since strength is more important then smooth walls.
2. This kit requires the use of ¼-20 t-track bolts long enough to extend pass the dogs. I then used nuts under the dogs to clamp them to the bottom of the track. Follow step 4 when installing the bolts. 
3. Try and print in the orientation shown in the slider picture I included. You will need good bed adhesion for the pieces that stand but this orientation will guarantee accuracy and avoid any elephants foot effect from messing with the results. Many pieces have chamfers to avoid this problem on the bottom based on these orientations.
4. When installing start with the section closes to the track and make sure it is at 90 degrees to the track.
5. Don't tighten the dogs to the track ahead of time. It is a tight fit with dogs at 19.95 and 18.95 in dimension. Tighten the bolts so the dogs can't rotate but can still slide a bit. Install the track down and then tighten it from the bottom if possible.
6. Make sure you have bench dog holes all along the rail. You can't just have a few here and there since this rail is in short pieces and there will be movement. If you want to do that you may need to add the caps I included to really tie down the few dogs you are using. I have two on each section and added holes along my extension table and it is rock solid. It does make it more work to remove but I prefer that instead of having accuracy problems.

That should be most of what you need to know. Hopefully the pictures shows you everything else you need to know.