DO NOT USE PLA, it will probably break at the tabs. Please use PETG, ASA, PLA+ , etc.
I used Polylite Pro PLA+, eSun PLA+, Overture PETG
Quality
Please see build plate file.
Support
Please see build plate file.
Other
Bed adhesion - use brim if you're having adhesion issues
Assembly
Slide the wire channel (3C) into the slots on the main body (5A).
If you used a brim, make sure to remove any lining the 3 slots on the body. It'll be difficult to push the wire channel into place if there is left over brim.
Put the wires through the hole in 5A first ( it fits , just need to move it around) then slide the PCB in.
Add the end cap (3B), it's a tight fit due to the detent so give a good press.
Slide the lens on, making sure to push it past the detent at the end. To remove the lens press down on the right side then slide it out.
Mount it! You might need to angle it into place, I made the tabs thicker so it's a tighter fit and depending on filament/other things, some might be tighter than others.
Facing the front of the printer, angle the lens/body upwards between 1 & 2 o'clock then rotate it flat into the mounting holes. Once it sits flush with the frame, push backwards (towards the left side of the printer) until it snaps in.
If people are having issues fitting it into place please leave a comment and I'll update but the current tabs should be much stronger then the original
It might be difficult to slide the board in because of the silicon on connector on the back side of the board, I removed the excess with a razor blade.
As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.
Previous Updates
Update (4/1/2023)
*Updated file - Light_Bar_Design_Final_3A to 4A
Shortened the tabs to made it easier to install on the frame
Update (2/17/2023)
*Updated file - Light_Bar_Wire_Channel_2C to 3C & Light_Bar_Design_Final_2A to 3A
Strengthened the mounting tabs
Some aesthetic changes
Bambu Lab P1P Modified LED Mount 2.0 Update (1/4/2023)
Decided to make a few changes to my previous design:
Moved the bracket ( towards the print head )to be flush with the edge of the frame.
Realized there was a ~6mm space between the front edge of the bracket and the inside edge of the frame which blocked some of the light.
Changed how to LED board “snaps” into the bracket, now it slides in from the side.
Felt like the snaps the held the board flat had the potential to break the board, and it was annoying to get out once in.
Removed the hole that the wires passed though and added a wire channel , more like how the X1 manages the wires.
The hole allowed light to leak out and seeing the wires wasn't exactly aesthetically pleasing. I also noticed there's a small pass though in the frame that the LED wire is suppose to run though, as I had it originally running through what should be the camera wire channel. The wire channel also fits under the camera , which has a cut out for that.
If you like my designs and want to say thanks, you can buy me a coffee and help fund the filaments I need for prototyping. A donation of any amount to Buy Me a Coffee or PayPal would be greatly appreciated!
As always, given different printing environments, filaments, etc., prints may not work perfectly for everyone. If you are having issues please message or comment and I will try my best to resolve the issue.
Brody
