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Ender 3 S1 E-Stop mount (Schneider/Electromecanique XAL) 3D Printer File Image 1
Ender 3 S1 E-Stop mount (Schneider/Electromecanique XAL) 3D Printer File Image 2
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Ender 3 S1 E-Stop mount (Schneider/Electromecanique XAL) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Ender 3 S1 E-Stop mount (Schneider/Electromecanique XAL) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Ender 3 S1 E-Stop mount (Schneider/Electromecanique XAL) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3

Ender 3 S1 E-Stop mount (Schneider/Electromecanique XAL)

Bram Driesen avatarBram Driesen

January 29, 2023

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Description

E-Stop mount for the Ender 3 S1. This mount is designed for a Schneider/Electromecanique XAL housings with 1 hole. E.g the XALD/XALK housing. This replaced the stock LCD mount and uses the same hardware to mount the mount. Since I'm using Klipper now I don't need the screen anymore.

Button wise you have a lot of options if you don't purchase a pre-configured version. As long as it's a 22mm emergency stop button from the XB5/XB4 Range you should be fine. The one in my design/photo's is the ZB5AT8643M.

For the contact blocks I'm using 2 NC ZBE102. 

I printed this with the “base” on the bed. I know for stronger layers I should have oriented it differently. But I tried breaking a test print and I have to say I couldn't. Since the part will not be used that much (I hope 🤣) I'm satisfied with the stiffness of the part it being printed in regular PLA as well. Only support structure I added was for the nut inserts in the bottom. For extra stiffness I used the Gyroid Support structure.

Hardware needed:

  • The bolts from the original mount
  • 2x M4 x 10mm Bolt
  • 2x M4 Nut

Safety notice:

The way I wired this button involves working with mains voltage which can be deadly. If you don't know what you are doing please don't attempt this project!

The contact blocks have following voltage rating:

  • 3 A at 240 V, AC-15, A600 conforming to EN/IEC 60947-5-1
  • 6 A at 120 V, AC-15, A600 conforming to EN/IEC 60947-5-1

According to a test from the 3dprintbeginner the ender 3 S1 draws around 300 Watt on 230 V which translates to roughly 1.3 A. So the printer needs to draw around 690 Watt to reach the normal max working load. This is technically not possible since the power supply is only 350 Watts.

So with that in mind it's safe to use these contact blocks inline to cut off the mains power supply to the printer. Although it would be better to use a lower voltage and something like a contactor or relay, I didn't want to add much more bulk to the printer.

Wiring wise this just uses one contact block for L (live) and one for the 0/N (Neutral) line. The ground wires are just spliced together.

PS: Schneider/Electromecanique is kind enough to have STEP files of virtually any part in their range. So designing something for their hardware really is super easy!

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution

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