February 17, 2023
Description
Because of the supportive comment from fleaz, I have cross-checked my braille on the caps to international standards - of course taking into account that I want to produce the caps using FDM. Now printability and readability now should be in harmony :-)
I have added special characters. These are important, for example, because the numbers use the same dots as A-J. Numbers. The number sign ( # ) therefore comes before each number to identify it as a number. Example: #1,#2,#3 or #123,#455,#420 In general, however, it is written in lower case.
Also, there is no distinction between upper and lower case letters. Therefore, the ( $ ) character for an uppercase letter is used afterwards
and the ( > ) character is used for a word in upper case. Example: $Test or >TEST
I remixed the model from iTzOminousTic on Thingiverse to upgrade a normal Cherry MX keyboard with the Braille alphabet.
My goal is to get people to engage with braille , even though they may not have to. Besides, real braille keyboards are very expensive. Wouldn't it be nice to convert your old keyboard and make it available to people who need it?
Braille is a braille script and is used internationally by the blind and severely visually impaired because they cannot read blackletter or can read it only with difficulty. It was developed in 1825 by the Frenchman Louis Braille.
Braille characters are formed using a combination of six raised dots arranged in a 3 × 2 matrix, called the braille cell. The number and arrangement of these dots distinguishes one character from another:
0,2mm layer height should be fine (In the braille area, I would change to 0.1mm using variable layer thickness to get a bit more layers)
I would recommend at least a 0.4 nozzle because of the fine details (dots).
iTzOminousTic comment to supports:
“I don't think you really need supports inside the little stem as they are a pain in the ass to remove (I actually had to stick a metal screwdriver after heating it up and pretty much melt the inside of the stem a bit and then force them on to the switch so it forms around the cross + and once it cools it would hold the shape), but supports on just the inner cavity {Around the stem) would be ideal”
Maybe you'll need rafts. But I would first try it without…
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
eltimbo1991
