September 4, 2025
Description
If your HoneyComb Board used is NOT the same size like mine: exactly 405 mm ( X-Axis ) by 405 mm ( Y-Axis ) mm we need to adopt the distancers.
Measures and sizes required:
HoneyComb Frame X-Width : ( mine is 21 mm )
HoneyComb Frame Y-Width : ( mine is 21 mm )
HoneyComb X-Size ( outer ) : ( mine is 405 mm )
HoneyComb Y-Size ( outer ) : ( mine is 405 mm )
Laser-Frame X-Size ( outer ) : ( mine is 510 mm )
Laser-Frame Y-Size ( outer ) : ( mine is 560 mm )
Laser X Zero Distance ( from the inner of metal leg ) :
Laser Y Zero Distance ( from the inner of metal leg ) :
Picture of one corner of Honeycomb( need to understand the construction of the Honeycomb edge / corner )
Ask, and we can work it out!
The HoneyComb Board used is the same size like mineUpdate 2025 September.
We only needed to adjust the Laser X-Zero; Y-Zero values. Done !
New Insights tell, that Sculpfun FRAMES also might differ.
==> Before Printing, please initially check size of LASER frame
My calculations base on the FRAME Size of my Sculpfun Laser. Measurement from the INNER surfaces to INNER Surfaces of the legs ( They are mounted on the outer of the frame ) for mine are:
Laser X-Direction 510mm and Laser Y-Direction is 560 mm
Different values I can adopt in my design.
Added Positioners for a SCULPFUN 400 x 400 Board.
400x400 is printed scale on frame. Board in fact is 447 x 447 mm.
Laser Zero Pos for this board is assumed X: 70mm , Y: 50 mm from INNER Surface of Metal Legs ( Remeber: No Leg Coats here )
===> I can adopt Board size, and Laser Zero Pos on request.
UPDATE 2024 April:
There are different sizes of Original HoneyComb Boards on the market.
Just recently I needed to adopt for Originals, that are 4 mm smaller the mine.
ALSO:
The Sculpfun x;y 0;0 Position of the laser itself vairies slightly, so that one inner edge of the HoneyComb Board does meet the Lasers 0;0 exactly. Other differ - probably also dependent on Stop-switch poasitions etc etc.
I will provide a Left FRONT and a Right BACK positioner for 401 x 401 mm Original HoneyComb Boards to use WITH LegCoats in a separate folder, BUT THEY WON't exacly fit the Lasers 0;0 exactly inner edge of the HoneyComb Board.
For this publication for 401 x 401 Board:
lower left X: 45.0 + 1.5 + 22 mm
==> Laser X 0-Position = 68.5 mm from Inner Original Metall Leg
lower left Y: 23.0 + 1.5 + 22 mm
==> Laser Y 0-Position = 46.5 mm from Inner Original Metall Leg
IF ANOTHER 0;0 IS REQUIRED, CONTACT ME AND I'LL SEE WHAT I CAN DO.
There seems to be, that Sculpfun sells HoneyComb Boards that formally do have the same size, BUT IN FACT THEY ARE A FEW MM SMALLER THAN MINE.
Mine is exactly 405 ( X-Axis ) by 405 ( Y-Axis ) mm and flagged as original Sculpfun product.
Distancers for a 401 x 401 mm size board are in Test.
Let me know, if you also experience a different size - so we find a way out.
OK?
* -------------------------- *
Laser engraver is currently in trend and very useful and nice tool.
As the comprehensiveness of the equipment, accessories and description, and the completeness of the usability concept is far away from what we all know from our friends from Prusa - guys, once again, thank you very much for your products, and for the way, you are enabling users to use your product from the very beginning - I needed to find a solution to position the plate to put the lasertools on.
The plate is called “honeycomb board”.
It shall be placed somewhere in the sculpfun core frame ( parts do represent the Y-axis ) of the laser - best that on inner edge or corner is in line with the zero position of the laser head ... and of course collinear to core frame.
THIS NEVER works especially as there are man situations on hits the board and it slips again to a new position - ref to picture with the red circles … free flying installation of the honeycomb board.
SO... one needs "positioners" the at the same time stabilise the board and keep it where it is.
Description:
First of all I designed a Cover around all 4 original legs.
The Covers do enlarge the "contact" area and can be fixed with screws.
The screws as well can fix the "positioners".
As a result they're three different "leg-coats".
The coats are broadened at the ground to give space to stick rubber buffer under it - replacing the self adhesive rubber strips.
Then
I calibrated the 0,0-position of the laser and aligned the honeycomb frame to the x- and y-axis moves.
based on this and inspired by a solution for an atomic laser ( this database ) i created what you find here.
Print
I used PETG for stability reasons
No supports needed.
To Note:
the height of the printed honeycomb-fillings are different. FRONT is at 3.5 mm for stability - this is where you need to ensure correct position.
BACK is just at 2mm … enough to keep the axis alignment,
Usage:
I created a FRONT- and BACK-positioner. FRONT is most important.
One can live with only one - BOTH do kind of guarantee the x-axis alignment.
Expectation:
I believe, this should work for the other sculpfun models as well.
Else let's pick a conversation. My parametric model should allow to adopt to different situations
Future:
I will create on that base another set of "leg coats" that will rise the frame to the required height for engraving cylindric pieces.
UPDATE March 17th:
Added FRAMES only for the positioner to print quickly without honeycombs and without the higher walls TO COMPARE if the would fit for someone else e.g. on another SculpFul model
UPDATE End of March 23:
I cretaed and added a model foer those who DO NOT WANT to Use the Leg-Coart Concept … model can be found here
License:
Creative Commons — Public Domain
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