Starlink at sea while cruising

Update 2026;

For more than three years, the Starlink Gen2 antenna proved to be a solid solution for offshore communications. It delivered reliable connectivity at sea and was, for a long time, a great option for cruising boats.

However, as the technology has evolved, the Gen2 hardware has started to show its age. Over time, reliability issues have become more common — most frequently related to the internal GPS antenna.

In my opinion, the newer Starlink Mini is far better suited to smaller boats. It offers improved reliability, lower power consumption, and a more compact form factor. I’ve now upgraded to the Mini on my own boat and wouldn’t go back.

If you’re considering the switch, take a look here for the updated mounting solution for your Starlink Mini antenna.

Starlink MINI frame mount (rotatable design!)

Mounting a Starlink at sea

First, you'll need to order the Starlink unit itself through their website. I wouldn't wait too long to do this. The Gen 2 actuated version is slowly being replaced by the Gen 3, which I see as a disadvantage for sailing yachts like ours. Soon, you might not be able to order it anymore, which would be inconvenient. You can start and stop the subscription on a monthly basis, so ordering it a bit earlier only means you'll have to pay for the first month. Even then, the Gen 2 is cheaper than the Gen 3 (August , 2024 in Europe) .

You can mount it using this item and my 3D-printed bushing. 

Look for fishing rod holder online. I was lazy and used a bit of rope to make sure it does not go flying. Holding up so far! 

Notes on mounting

• I opted for high up away from any salt water. This means a lot of swinging around for the unit at sea. It takes about 45min to 1 hour to connect at sea. Lower probably means a quicker connection. However it does mean closer to any salt water. Make your own decision based on preference and options onboard. 

• I only use the dishy since the last update in the ‘flat’ position. Only available on Roam subscriptions. 

DC conversion

• POE injector

• Router I use with good results

• Alternative router

Notes on DC conversion

• Do not underestimate the importance on a proper ground connection that is needed for the POE injector

• If using these parts the whole thing is pretty much plug and play. If you are able to set a custom SSID and password for your network at home, you'll be able to do this. 

• Fuse the POE injector with a minimum of 5 amps. Any lower and you will blow the fuse.

• Use proper gauge wiring.  

• Real world measurements have indicated an average use with this setup at 45watts. This includes a 3rd party router. 

Real world efficiency tests
By Perjan Moors SY Come Di currently in Trinidad & Tobago

Measurements done over a 24hr period with normal data use. A Victron smart shunt was used for the measurements. 3rd party router was a MikroTik hAp AC lite. 

Power consumption of the 3rd party router was not measured during the 24hr period but only momentarily. 

1) Yoasheng + 3rd party router: 44,2W+1,3W 45,5W;
2)Victron Phoenix 12/250 inverter + Starlinkrouter 59,6W;
3)Victron Phoenix 12/250 inverter+ Starlinkpassthrough + 3rd party router: 57,9W+1,3W = 59,2W

 Disclaimer

My models are always tested on my own boat. We are currently cruising to the Caribbean and you can therefor assume that we load up the part properly. It is however your own responsibility to use these parts when heading out to sea. Use common sense and print spares if you are not able to print onboard. Especially on longer passages. 

Remix

Please remix however you like. If you are not able to design your own parts I do offer a modification service to those in need. A contribution for my effort is however expected. Send me a message on Noforgeinland and I am sure we will figure something out. 
https://www.noforeignland.com/boat/sya