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Starlight Lamp - LED - 12V 3D Printer File Image 1
Starlight Lamp - LED - 12V 3D Printer File Image 2
Starlight Lamp - LED - 12V 3D Printer File Image 3
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Starlight Lamp - LED - 12V

Seabird HH avatarSeabird HH

April 4, 2023

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Description

According to the seller, the light output of the LED is 250 lumens, The lamp is therefore probably not suitable for illuminating a desk. It is more likely to be used as a mood or bedside lamp. With 3000K the light is considered warm white. The power consumption is 2.5 watt.

If you want it a little brighter, you can also use an LED with the same dimensions and 350 lumens, but with 3.5W power consumption.

Dimensions:

  • H max. 400 mm
  • base 195 x 160 mm
  • lampschade Ø 140 mm, L 112 mm

Supplies:

Parts to print:

  • base
  • struts (3x)
  • connector
  • lampshade
  • back
  • ring
  • bracket
  • knobs (6x)
  • glass fixring

Metall parts:

  • threaded rod Ø 4 mm
  • washers Ø 15 x 5 x 1 mm (14x)
  • nuts Ø 4 mm (6x) for knobs
  • screws Ø m3 plus matching nuts (2x)
  • self-tapping screws Ø 2,2 x 9 mm (5x)

Lamp "glass":

  • Ø 65 mm polycarbonate twin-wall sheet, thickness 6mm

Electrics:

  • 2 pole AC/DC power jack 5,5/2,1mm (
  • 4G bulb socket
  • 2 Position Mini Toggle Switch
  • 4G LED bulb 2,5W/250 Lm or 4G LED bulb 3,5W/350 Lm. IMPORTANT!: I do not advise the installation of a higher wattage bulb, because of too much heat development!
  • 12 V AC/DC power adapter
  • switch wire, ca. 10cm 

Most of these parts you can find here:

LED 250 Lm

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00LC0DSEC/ref=cm_sw_em_r...

or

LED 350 Lm

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09PG7LD5J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Bulb socket:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00279SBDA/ref=cm_sw_em_r...

Switch:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01MXLZ7R1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power jack:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B09PD6J4BN/?coliid=I1UT18YHHJVY6W&colid=26O98LZMHQ90O&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Power adapter:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00LEFGDOM/ref=cm_sw_em_...

Further:

  • drill, Ø 2mm
  • fretsaw
  • metal saw
  • soldering Iron
  • solder
  • soldering grease
  • (super)glue
  • sandpaper
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • flat pliers
  • piercer

1. Printing

Print Settings:

  • printer brand: Prusa
  • printer: MK3S / Mini / Flashforge Finder
  • supports: No
  • resolution: 0,2
  • infill: 15% except: mount lampshade 30%, knobs 50%
  • filament brand: Prusa; ICE
  • filament color: Galaxy Black; Romantic Red, Wintershine White
  • filament material: PLA

Remark: As all parts are designed to fit very precisely, it may happen that you have to rework one or the other part a bit with sandpaper and/or cutter due to different dimensional accuracy of the printers and the different behavior of the filaments.

 

2. Saw and Insert Twin-wall Sheet "glass"

For this work step you need:

  • polycarbonate twin-wall sheet, thickness 6 mm
  • "lamp_lampshade.stl"
  • "lamp_glassfixring".stl
  • fretsaw with very fine saw blade
  • fineliner or piercer

There is hardly anyone who will have a polycarbonate twin-wall sheet in stock at home, and no one is likely to buy a whole 1m x 2m sheet just for a few square centimeters. Perhaps there are similar plates in smaller sizes. Otherwise I recommend polycarbonate glass 3mm thick, 70% translucency or transparent polycarbonate glass. These are available in our DIY stores in small sizes.

To cut the polycarbonate glass exactly for this tube, I put the back of the lampshade on the "glass" and pull along the inside with a thin felt-tip pen or a pricker. The lampshade must not slip in this process.

The glass insert has a diameter of 65mm. The insert sits so tightly after insertion that the use of glue is not necessary in my case. A small step ensures that the glass - when inserting - cannot slip through to the front.

If the "glass" is too loose, you can fix it with the "lamp_glassfixring.stl" from the inside with some super glue.

 

3. Assembling Light Unit

For the next step you kneed

  • "lamp_bracket.stl
  • 4G bulb socket 
  • 2x self-tapping screws Ø 2,2x 2,9 mm 
  • 2 mm drill
  • 4G LED bulb 2,5W/250 Lm or 3,5W/350 Lm IMPORTANT!: I do not advise the installation of a higher wattage bulb, because of too much heat development!
  • piercer

The LED bulb socket must be screwed onto the "lamp_bracket.stl". For this you have to drill two holes with Ø 2mm into the socket. Before you do this, mark the holes with a piercer.

 

4. Install LED Socket Together With the Connector

For this step you need:

  • lampshade with inserted polycarbonate "glass"
  • the prepared bulb socket (the assembly can also be done with the LED in place)
  • "lamp_connector.stl"
  • 2 screws Ø m3 plus matching nuts
  • screwdriver
  • flat pliers

It is now 3 parts that must be screwed together. The rear nut can only be positioned with flat pliers. This is a bit fiddly, but doable!

 


 

5. Installation AC/DC Socket and Switch
 

Now you need:

  • the prepared lampshade
  • "lamp_back.stl"
  • 2 pin AC/DC Socket 5,5/2,1mm
  • 2 Position Mini Toggle Switch
  • spanner 10 and 9 mm

Do not be confused. In my case, I used a 3-pin AC/DC socket that I still had on stock.

Insert the switch and the socket - as shown in the pictures.

 

6. Soldering

For the next step you need:

  • soldering iron
  • solder
  • soldering grease
  • switch wire, ca. 10 cm 
  1. Take one of the wires coming from the LED socket and solder it to one of the pins of the AC/DC socket
  2. Solder the other wire coming from the LED socket to one of the pins from the switch.
  3. Finally, take a piece of wire about 10cm long and connect the empty pins from the switch and the socket.



7. Attach Back

And now you need:

  • 3 self-tapping screws Ø 2,2 x 9 mm
  • piercer or drill, Ø 2mm
  • Phillips screwdriver

After the electrics are completed, the back can now be attached.

The drill holes in the "lamp_back.stl" are only marked and should be treated with a piercer or pre-drilled with a Ø 2 mm drill bit.

 

8. Prepare Fixing Knobs

You go on with:

  • 6 x "lamp_knob.stl"
  • 6x nuts Ø 4mm thread
  • (superglue)

The nuts are pressed into the recess with a little force. In my case, they sit so tight that additional gluing with superglue is not necessary.

You have the choice between two different knobs.

 

9. Saw the Threaded Rods

Now you need:

  • threaded rod Ø 4 mm
  • metal saw

Before we can start assembling the lamp, we first have to cut 3 different threaded rods:

  • 65 mm
  • 45 mm
  • 30 mm

As an alternative to a threaded rod, threaded screws of the appropriate length and diameter can also be used. In this case, only the heads would have to be sawed off.

 

10. Assembly

For this last step you need:

  • the completed lampshade
  • the completed fixing knobs
  • "lamp_base.stl"b
  • "lamp_strut.stl" (3x)
  • "lamp_ring.stl"
  • 14 washers Ø 15 x 5 x 1 mm
  • threaded rods (65, 45, 30 mm)

Start by inserting the two struts at the base. - as shown in the pictures. To do this you will need the 65 mm long threaded rod. Inserting the washers is a bit fiddly. Now screw on the locking knobs on both sides.  

Next, insert the remaining strut. For this you need the 45 mm long threaded rod.

The last step is to connect the single strut to the connecting piece of the lampshade. For this you take the 30 mm long threaded rod.

Actually, the lamp is now ready ... except for the ring, which not only protects against the sharp corners but also gives the lamp its unique appearance!                 

The ring has on the inner side 5 small notches. At one notch is the word "Top". This notch belongs at the top! Then put some superglue in the notches and insert the ring from the front. The notches are in the front of the ring. Make sure that the ring is flush with the lampshade.

Done! Have fun with this lamp!   

 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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