• Models
  • Contests
  • Slicer
  • Login
  • Start Here
    thingiverse-iconprintables-iconcults3d-iconmakerworld-iconmyminifactory-icon

    3D GO

    3D ModelsContestsCollectionsSaved ModelsOn a mobile device?

3D GO

Privacy Policy
Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter 3D Printer File Image 1
Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter 3D Printer File Image 2
Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter 3D Printer File Image 3
Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter 3D Printer File Image 4
Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4

Creality CR-10S Pro / Pro V2 - E3D Revo CR Adapter

Jrjy3 avatarJrjy3

May 5, 2023

printables-icon
DescriptionCommentsTags

Description

I bought the E3D Revo CR thinking it would be a drop-in replacement for the stock hotend on the Creality CR-10S Pro V2. Unfortunately, the CR-10S Pro and Pro V2 use a different hotend from the Ender printers (It's an E3D V6-like, but direct mount instead of groove mount). The Revo CR isn't as long as the stock hotend, so the cooling fan duct prevents the nozzle from reaching the bed.

This simple adapter plate screws into the stock hotend mounts at the top. The hotend is screwed into the bottom with nuts in a nut trap on the back to secure it.

Using this adapter, the nozzle sits slightly lower than stock, so you will need to increase your nozzle offset.

The model is designed with the Prusa-inspired supportless floating holes, so no support is needed when printed in the default orientation.

 

Hardware needed:

2x M3x8 Screws

2x M3x22 Screws

2x M3 nuts (lock nuts would work if you don't have thread locker)

Blue (Medium) Strength Threadlocker

 

Printing:

Print with the nut traps facing up for the best layer strength. The supportless holes were designed for 0.2mm layer height. PLA may work, but I used PETG for additional heat resistance due to the proximity to the hotend. ABS or similar would be best.

I printed with 3 perimeters and 50% cubic infill.

When sliced properly, the floating hole layers should look like this:

 

Instructions:

Insert the 2 M3 nuts into the nut traps and push them as far in as you can. Screw the E3D Revo CR onto the mount using the 2 M3x22 screws through the adapter into the nuts using thread locker to ensure they don't vibrate loose (yes, that happened to me). Then, use the 2 M3x8 screws to attach the plate to the original hotend mounting holes with the nut traps facing backward.

 

A step file is included in case you need to make any adjustments, but be warned: my Fusion 360 skills suck and it's messy.

License:

Creative Commons — Public Domain

Related Models

#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test by CreativeTools.se preview image

#3DBenchy - The jolly 3D printing torture-test by CreativeTools.se

CreativeTools profile image

CreativeTools

90,750

Important information sign for 3D printers / Wichtiges Hinweisschild für 3D-Drucker :) preview image

Important information sign for 3D printers / Wichtiges Hinweisschild für 3D-Drucker :)

Pat_S profile image

Pat_S

Gift Box preview image

Gift Box

roby85r profile image

roby85r

1,480

Self-Watering Planter (Small) preview image

Self-Watering Planter (Small)

parallelgoods profile image

parallelgoods

73,028

X, Y and Z calibration tool for IDEX / dual extruder / dual color 3D printers preview image

X, Y and Z calibration tool for IDEX / dual extruder / dual color 3D printers

Voxel3D_NL profile image

Voxel3D_NL

200

sign: don't touch my 3d printer preview image

sign: don't touch my 3d printer

Izzodesign74 profile image

Izzodesign74

385

7