Screws for Plastic - I had something laying around but you will need to find something that will work.
22 AWG stranded wire in black and red
Soldering iron and solder
Printing Instructions
Base
Print in vertical orientation (back panel cutout opening facing up). This is primarily so that the sliding rails can be printed without supports.
Use tree supports
Use adaptive layer heights so that the radius corners come out looking good.
Infill shouldn't matter but I used 15%
Back Cover
Print back side down (obviously)
Infill shouldn't matter much but I used 15%
Clearance will need to be added to the sides to fit in the slot in the main body. I got impatient printing and testing and ended up taking about .040" off of the part with my Bridgeport mill.
Battery Box
Print back side down
Print with 100% infill or use the “cut” feature of your slicer to set 100% infill on the ears only and print the rest at whatever infill you would like.
Assembly Notes
You will need to drill holes in your battery box and the standoffs for whichever plastic screws you select. You could also elect to simply glue the ears to the standoffs but that will prevent you from gaining access to the LEDs in the future if you ever need to.
The standoffs in the body should only be drilled out about .150" to avoid coming through the other side.
Use superglue to glue the LEDs into the main body. Once glued you can solder them in place with very minimal melting of the surrounding PLA (or whatever you are printing with)
Pins on the rocker switch that I used will need to be cut down slightly so that it doesn't interfere with the battery box.
Scott Carter
