• Models
  • Contests
  • Slicer
  • Login
  • Start Here
    thingiverse-iconprintables-iconcults3d-iconmakerworld-iconmyminifactory-icon

    3D GO

    3D ModelsContestsCollectionsSaved ModelsOn a mobile device?

3D GO

Privacy Policy
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Image 1
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Image 2
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Image 3
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Image 4
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Image 5
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E) 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5

VESA 200 to 100 adapter - Prusa Mini+ printable (VESA Norm MIS-E)

_KaszpiR_ avatar_KaszpiR_

May 24, 2026

printables-icon
DescriptionCommentsTags

Description

About:

VESA 200 to 100 adapter compatible with VESA Norm MIS-E.
This is just horizontal bar which is printable on Prusa Mini+ if printed diagonally.
Anything else would just not fit in the Prusa Mini anyway.

There are no holes for screw heads/nuts because it really depends on what parts you have (some heads are bigger) and I wanted to avoid it, because adding custom desired holes on your own is simple enough nowadays, just by adding negative volume.

This model is heavily inspired by https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5152984 - I initially used that model, edited it in tinkercad (to cut out major part so that it would fit in the Prusa Mini+ print bed) and then added negative volumes in Prusa Slicer to make it thinner, then added infill modifiers to make it more sturdy in the places where holes are (I knew I will drill holes in there).  Overall infill was 25%, that might be a bit too low for certain older displays.

First print was OK, but it required extra tweaks and frankly speaking making it from scratch was just what I should have done in the first place :)

Some photos are from prints with previous model version - that's why there are 6 sided holes in the bars, and screw heads were manually drilled.

Prints from the first ‘make’ are 1:1 final model - it has just plain 4mm holes and it fits perfectly 8kg display, just added 100% infill to be really sure, but actually it can hold it with lower infill.
 

Please give a like and post makes and provide comments for further improvements.

Changelog:

  • 2026.05.24 - added photo with a green markers of the example print after almost 3 years since the print with 8kg display

  • 2025.02.11 - description update with additional photos

  • 2023.08.04 - added make

  • 2023.06.08 - initial release

Dimensions:

  • width 220mm

  • depth 20mm

  • height 7mm

  • holes for M4 (4mm diameter)

Printing:

  • read before print :D

  • import model, print in 100% infill for super strength

  • optional:

    • with lower infill it is advised to add volume modifiers for example cylinders around holes on the whole height, make infill 100%, so it is easier to for example add extra holes for nuts

    • If you do not have a drill - add negative volume for holes for nuts/screw heads  - usually only two internal for VESA100 which will be touching the display, you can print it without supports

  • rotate model 45 degrees (if you rotate first then placing negative volumes/infill modifier will be just more tricky)

  • slice it, look carefully at the infill pattern, rotate it if needed.

  • print twice, I used PETG and it worked very well.

Assembly:

  • metal parts:

    • 4xM4 screws (at least 12mm long or more)

    • 4xM4 nuts (for example self-locking nuts advised, DIN 985 / ISO 10511)

    • M4 washers in the places where heads or nuts have direct contact with plastic, I really recommend washers to preserve print especially if not using 100% infill

  • optional:

    •  make drill holes with 9mm drill to hide screw heads/nuts - calculate depth carefully, do not drill across the bar!

    • If you do not made holes at all by any means then you will need some extra distances - you can use washers or just nuts for that

  • mount bars horizontally with screws - put washers under screw heads/nuts

  • attach to the mounting VESA head first - because you probably need to have access to nut and screw head in the same time

  • then it attach that to the back of the display - this is usually only by screwing 4 screws across bars into the display mount

  • mount display

  • …

  • profit!

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

Related Models

Cable Corners... keep cables in corners! preview image

Cable Corners... keep cables in corners!

muzz64 profile image

muzz64

30,962

Headset Hanger 2.0 preview image

Headset Hanger 2.0

RMTB profile image

RMTB

16,714

PetsTags preview image

PetsTags

Dominik profile image

Dominik

1,127

Universal Filament Filter and Lubricator preview image

Universal Filament Filter and Lubricator

CreativeTools profile image

CreativeTools

26,104

3D4U by Miele Coffee Clip preview image

3D4U by Miele Coffee Clip

3D4U powered by Miele profile image

3D4U powered by Miele

8,621

Simple Customizable Key tags  preview image

Simple Customizable Key tags

constantinost profile image

constantinost

158

SHARKZ... Fun Multipurpose Clips / Holders / Pegs with moving jaws that bite! preview image

SHARKZ... Fun Multipurpose Clips / Holders / Pegs with moving jaws that bite!

muzz64 profile image

muzz64

24,659

Mechanical wall clock preview image

Mechanical wall clock

Harald Andersson profile image

Harald Andersson

6,964