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Intex PureSpa Whirlpool Controller (Electromechanics) 3D Printer File Image 1
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Intex PureSpa Whirlpool Controller (Electromechanics)

Elektroarzt avatarElektroarzt

July 20, 2024

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Description

This project is about modifying an Intex PureSpa Whirlpool to remote control it via WiFi in parallel to the original display unit. The project is based on the fabulous work of jnsbyr and some other contributors on GitHub:

https://github.com/jnsbyr/esp8266-intexsbh20

On this GitHub page an electronics hardware and software solution is described to hook into the bus of e.g. Intex SB-H20 and SJB-HS models. A pool compatibility list can also be found there. To make it mechanically easy, an enclosure with an electrical and mechanical connection was needed, which is at best IP68 conform and connects directly to the original Intex connectors so you don’t have to open the pool housing or damage cables. I kept using some standard parts, that are not worth printing as they are everywhere to buy.

So here we go …

 

Printing Parameters

Layer height: The whole project could be printed in 0.3mm to keep print time in a meaningful range, but I recommend to print at least the connectors in 0.2mm to have more stability in terms of the mechanical stress while screwing.

Supports: Use organic supports and only in the area of the connector pins, if your slicer is supporting the organic support feature.

Perimeters: choose at least 3 outer perimeters, better is 4 for stability of the connector housings

 

Connectors

Please refer to the connector pictures for the correct pinout. On the PCB you find the corresponding Pin 1 at the connector references J1 and J2 respectively. The used cable clamp to seal the male connector in terms of IP protection is a standard M20 one you can buy in every hardware store.

For the connector pins use the following parts from TE Connectivity which can e.g. be sourced at RS Online:

MaterialTE Connectivity Part #RS Online Part #
Male Crimp Contact350669-1680-1705
Female Crimp Contact926882-3680-5340

Be aware, there are shorter male pins at the market which are not suitable for the connectors.

To seal the pins against each other inside the connectors, definitely use heat shrink tube after crimping. Otherwise you sooner or later will have contact between the pins which could lead to damaging the pool. Also be sure to have a proper crimping tool for the contacts. A Knipex 97 22 240 is cheap and will do a good job if you don’t have one.

The most difficult part is insertion of the female crimp contacts into the connector housing. This is done best with needle-nosed pliers. I read about a dedicated insertion tool for these types of contacts, but was not willing to invest in this very special tool. Be sure to insert the contacts as can be seen on the sectional view picture of the connector. You can hear a little click sound of the hooks snapping into the connector housing if inserted properly.

Important: While printing the ‘Adapter Intex male to PG20’ pause at a proper printing height to insert the ‘Intex Gland Nut’.

 

Housing

The supplier for the housing is always changing (Kema, Anicoll, Jttxiu, Elezenioc, …) but the part itself seems to be a standard. You can find it on Amazon with the keywords „ip 68 housing“

https://www.amazon.de/s?k=ip68+housing&__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=2M3VIN5TZC3NE&sprefix=ip68+housing%2Caps%2C226&ref=nb_sb_noss

The housing clips into the base plate, just slide it in and push a bit until it clicks.

 

Cables

Perfectly fitting to the cable clamp and the connectors on the PCB is the following cable. I recommend using suitable ferrules at all cable ends.

MaterialManufacturer / Part #Seller
Cables for male and female connectorLapp Ölflex Classic 110 5x0,75mm² / 1119105Amazon

 

PCB

I designed a PCB that can be found in the above linked GitHub which perfectly fits into the housing.  I used standard wired components, there is no special requirement concerning power rating. Read the part values out of the schematic given in the Readme on the above written GitHub Link. To fasten the PCB in the housing, I used standard hex nylon distancer and M3 screws glued in with 2k or hot glue.

If someone is interested in a complete device including all parts (PCBA, ESP8266, housing, etc.) you can contact me under [email protected].

 

Happy pooling :)

 

Credits

This project is inspired by the nice connectors of Psykokwak on Thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4130911
It has been completely new designed to fit the IP requirements

Disclaimer

⚠ WARNING: You may only use this project at your own risk. The information provided is meant to be helpful but may contain errors or may be misinterpreted. Neither myself nor any of the contributors to this project provide any warranty or will assume any responsibility for any damage you cause yourself or others by using this project.

 



 

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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