The Annelise Violin (Electric)

The Annelise Violin (aka. The Annie Fiddle) I wanted to create a violin that reminded me of the old steel bridges found on the way to New Orleans, on the bayou roads. I also wanted to give the fingerboard a lighter, classical look. These features required me to add some breakaway supports, so you'll need your exacto.

Due to popular demand, my violins are now available assembled and customizable for you on Etsy as well: https://www.etsy.com/listing/687390452/the-jax-dragon-violin

This particular print takes advantage of a lot of mid-print color changes. Which require either a lot of watching or some .gcode editing (found online or ask me and I can post later). I hope you like it.

This design uses a standard violin bridge, allows for a standard shoulder rest and allows for a traditional style 3D printed chin rest (included and set up for screw on brackets).

If you prefer, I've also included blank pieces of the design in case you want to remix or go with the clean look.

Since the lower bout and waist of the violin can't be printed as one piece on a standard 8" printer, the waist parts screw on (so they can be replaced if broken or left out all together if you choose). You will likely have to print the lower bout at 45º in order to fit, with very little brim as it makes it too large to fit. Either way I can't wait to see what you make of it.

If you're looking for a nice way to display them, check out my Electric Violin Wall Hanger:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2575603

Oh and the parts are interchangeable with my other violins...
The JAx Dragon (newest):
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3505364
The Mina Violin:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2122773
The JAx 5 String:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922325

A big shout out to Stepan Ignatovich for the inspiration and original remix source of the neck design/concept.

UPDATE: Added a single piece version of the upper and middle neck (upon request) in case you have a printer bed big enough to print it. Avoids having a seam on the fingerboard.

Print instructions

Unassociated tags: electric violin

Category: Music Summary

The Annelise Violin (aka. The Annie Fiddle) I wanted to create a violin that reminded me of the old steel bridges found on the way to New Orleans, on the bayou roads. I also wanted to give the fingerboard a lighter, classical look. These features required me to add some breakaway supports, so you'll need your exacto.

Due to popular demand, my violins are now available assembled and customizable for you on Etsy as well: https://www.etsy.com/listing/687390452/the-jax-dragon-violin

This particular print takes advantage of a lot of mid-print color changes. Which require either a lot of watching or some .gcode editing (found online or ask me and I can post later). I hope you like it.

This design uses a standard violin bridge, allows for a standard shoulder rest and allows for a traditional style 3D printed chin rest (included and set up for screw on brackets).

If you prefer, I've also included blank pieces of the design in case you want to remix or go with the clean look.

Since the lower bout and waist of the violin can't be printed as one piece on a standard 8" printer, the waist parts screw on (so they can be replaced if broken or left out all together if you choose). You will likely have to print the lower bout at 45º in order to fit, with very little brim as it makes it too large to fit. Either way I can't wait to see what you make of it.

If you're looking for a nice way to display them, check out my Electric Violin Wall Hanger:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2575603

Oh and the parts are interchangeable with my other violins...
The JAx Dragon (newest):
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3505364
The Mina Violin:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2122773
The JAx 5 String:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2922325

A big shout out to Stepan Ignatovich for the inspiration and original remix source of the neck design/concept.

UPDATE: Added a single piece version of the upper and middle neck (upon request) in case you have a printer bed big enough to print it. Avoids having a seam on the fingerboard.

Post-Printing

In order to achieve the look I wanted and not have to paint the PLA, I had to be very careful not to sand or file any of the exposed areas, instead I used a small exacto knife to clean up edges. On this print I did decide to file the fingerboard AFTER screwing the neck pieces together. Gives it an even tighter seam than the exacto, but also a more matte finish.

Let me know if anything is missing.

Custom Section

Printing

I recommend printing one piece at a time. It's time consuming, but you'll want more control in the end. After a few attempts, only 3 pieces required supports in the end. The two violin waist pieces with the pipes required a bit of finagling with printing supports and cleaning. The bottom 2 parts of the neck had the coolest effect when printing flat, so I printed neck_part3 with supports (therefor the hidden under part where the tuning pegs screw in is not as smooth as the rest). The chin rest also of course requires supports to get that classic curve.

General Materials

Printed Parts - 8pcs your choice
Threaded Metal Rod M8 x 370mm

Violin Bridge - will need sanding like all bridges, but also flattening out of the feet
Violin Pickup and Preamp - for under bridge (easy to find on eBay or Amazon)
Guitar Tuners - 4pcs (2 left/2 right)
Shoulder Rest - Standard Type
Chin Rest Bracket - Standard Type
Violin Strings

Screws and Nuts

Screws:
M4 x 25mm socket cap - 9pcs
M4 x 15mm socket cap - 2pcs
M4 x 12mm socket cap - 2pcs
M4 x 50mm - 1pcs (philips or flat head)
M4 x 40mm - 2pcs (philips or flat head)
4/40 - 3/8" OR M3 x 8mm - 4pcs (for tuning pegs) matching WI's
M2 x 10mm - 4pcs (Note: often provided with violin pickup)

Nuts:
M4 - 16pcs
M3 Brass Wood Screw Inserts for the tuners - 4pcs (likely need to drill out a bit for a smooth fit, brass is soft and will break if it has much resistance in the plastic)

Infill and Walls

I used a 20% with a mix of 4mm and 3mm thick walls to make sure it was solid enough to hold it's tuning and have a warm sound. But because that makes it fairly heavy compared to a classical acoustic (or carbon fiber electric) I am still looking for the right balance. If you make one, please comment with your settings and the outcome. Still pondering testing switching out the 370mm M8 Threaded Metal Rod with a carbon fiber rod or tube.