Jimbox Micro - Hitbox Variant

I looked at various different hitbox cases to build a https://gp2040-ce.info/ compatible case and found none of them quite met my needs (albeit being very close, particularly jfedor's different options and tryptech's amazing remix: https://www.printables.com/model/449392-slimbox-2040-stickless-all-button-low-profile-figh )

Initially I tried to modify these but the slimbox's source is in Blender which I am not adept in so I ended up making my own in fusion360 and using similiar measurements and methods including ways to eliminate most support requirements. It is compact but fitted more for my hands.

The case is very slim but will accommodate hand wiring - mine is an obvious shit show after so many different attempts at working out the base details.

Parts required include:

• Raspberry Pico/ or similiar RP2040 equivalent - I used a USB-C variant
  • The GP2040-CE website will give you options. I used a full size board as it is easier to wire in the OLED screen.
• 14x Kailh Choc V1 switches - colour of your own choosing.
  • Optional but recommended is 14x hotswap sockets as well to make construction less aggravating.
• 6x 6mm tactile switches
• 22x 6x3mm circular magnets - or enough for you to make it feel secure enough - or less if you want to use glue.
• Some form of glue to fix the magnets - e.g. CA glue
• WS2812B or equivalent ‘neopixel’ style LEDs.
• 1.3'' OLED Screen as per GP2040-CE specification - 128x64 monochrome I2C displays - SSD1306, SH1106, and SH1107 compatible. I used this.

Supports Required - front side window of Main Body only

The case is designed to give you the option of routing the USB port to the side or to the front. If in the front, you will need a USB Male to Female extension of your choosing plugged in to the RP2040/Pico mainboard with the port facing in. Using the side port means placing your RP2040/Pico mainboard in the fitted area with the port facing out and no extension is required.

There is a window at the front side of the case to accomodate a strip of LED's for lighting. It would be difficult to fit per switch/key lighting in this case, but if you really wanted to hand wire it, I suppose you could. I left markings on the base plate in case this makes it easier.

The example in the previews show my own personal unit with a customised symbol embedded - I removed this as it is my family name and I can't imagine other people would want that. 

I have also provided a cover that can be placed on top which is blank and easily customised in PrusaSlicer or whatever. It is not secured via a clip or any mechanism. This could be secured with a rubber band or just for dust protection on display rather than mobility. In my photos, I printed it with 0 top and bottom layers to just show infill which is dumb because it doesn't really protect from dust at all.

My biggest warning is that the OLED screens (which are widely available including on aliexpress) while looking similiar having very subtle variations in their mounting holes and position of the screen, and may not fit exactly onto this case - I know this from experience after getting 1 dud, replacing it with ones that didnt fit, cracking a screen and ultimately using a third OLED screen. I made the mounting struts smaller to hopefully accomodate other variants.

I used these keycaps as I printed these all on an FDM (Prusa MK3S) for the circulars and these for the Start/Select buttons.