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Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Image 1
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Image 2
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Image 3
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Image 4
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Image 5
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Image 6
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Thumbnail 1
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Thumbnail 2
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Thumbnail 3
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Thumbnail 4
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Thumbnail 5
Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket 3D Printer File Thumbnail 6

Lamp shade for a 50cm LED tube with S14s socket

Jürgen Weigert avatarJürgen Weigert

August 13, 2023

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Description

I had an old fluorecent tube installed at the wall of my reading corner. It had become dimmer and dimmer over time, and then when thinking about power efficiency, I decided to replace it with an 8 Watts LED tube.

While consuming only a fraction of the energy now, this lamp was much brighter than expected. Good for reading under the lamp, but very bad for looking directly into the lamp.

So it needs a shade.

My tube has 30mm diameter, and the shade clips directly onto the tube. There is almost no heat due to the LEDs.

It goes 2/3 around the tube, and extends 2cm to the front bottom. This leaves 1/3 of the tube exposed to brightly illuminate the reading area, while the light that goes through the shade material is nicely dimmed.

I chose white PETG which is semi-translucent at 1mm wall thickness.

My 3D printer cannot do 50cm long parts, so I split it up in 3 parts. The long corners are rounded with a 3mm diameter, to make the shade more sturdy and nicer to the touch.

Print with one perimeter wall, 0% infill and 0 bottom, 0 top layers. This produces round holes in the long edges with ca 2mm inner diameter. Run two lengths of filament though these edges to connect the three printed parts. You can apply some glue, but that is not really needed.

The middle part without hole for a socket is called lampenschirm-BodyM.stl

The end part is lampenschirm-Body.stl it has a hole for a socket, and needs to be printed twice, one copy mirror imaged.

lampenschirm-Body.3mf has all three parts in the correct way for convenience.

I've added some support to the upper edge of the holes just to be safe.

Category: Replacement Parts

License:

Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

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