6" Recessed Light to Octagonal Box Adapter

I have a bunch of 6" recessed LED ceiling lights. I needed 2, but they came in boxes of 6. Fast forward to recently, and I found myself looking at them and wondering how I could adapt it to a standard electrical octagonal box in my basement workshop. That is what this design is for. In addition to octagonal boxes, I have also mounted one to a ceiling joist with wood screws in my crawl space to replace an old florescent light still using the mercury tubes.

The design is 2 parts, an adapter plate, and the ring to mount the recessed light. There is a shelf for the LED control box to be mounted via VHB tape to one side of the octagonal box; whatever is easiest.

Print it in ABS or ASA. PETG and PLA may soften and warp from heat, though they don't seem to get that hot, you never know. Use settings you're comfortable with for engineering parts. I use 40% infill, with 4 top and bottom layers, and 4 perimeters, at 0.2 layer height. You could easily do this with 0.3 layer height, or if you have a large enough nozzle, even 0.4 layer height.

To assemble it, you need 4 M3x4mm heat set inserts, and 4 M3 BHCS at least 6mm long, with a max of 16mm. If you don't like heatsets, there are hex insets for M3 nuts on the adapter plate, which require you to use M3x16 BHCS.

1. Print the parts.
2. Set the heat set inserts, or insert the M3 nuts, in the adapter plate.
3. Attach the ring mount to the adapter plate.
4. Turn off the breaker to the circuit you're going to play with. No, really, turn off the power.
5. Free up the wiring you need to run from the octagonal box to the LED light's control box.
6. Secure the adapter plate to the octagonal box with some 6-32 screws, or whatever your box uses; you only need to secure with 2. Route your wires suitably.
7. Make the electrical connections to the control box, and mount the control box on the shelf with some VHB tape along side the octagonal box.
8. Insert the recessed LED light into the ring, and pay attention to the connecting wire for the control box. Route it suitably, and connect it to the control box.
9. Turn the breaker back on, and assuming you did it right, you have a working light now.

That's pretty much it. Disclaimer, I'm not offering any advice in respect to electrical work. You do that at your own risk. Be careful, and don't be stupid about it. Turn off the breaker before you do anything.

Lastly, I do intend to release a ring for 4" recessed lights of the same relative model. I have a bunch of those as well, and want to leverage them too.