8020 Router sled for Festool Router OF 1010

A router sled is a woodworking tool for flattening very large pieces of wood. 8020 is extruded aluminum that can be ordered to size. I used it because it's what I had on hand.

Here's a video of the sled in action: https://imgur.com/gallery/YyJgCWi 

I made this a long time ago. I'm posting it here for archival. Hopefully, others will find it useful.

Router compatibility: The f3d file is included. If you remix this for a different router, post a make and leave a comment in the description.

Caution: You're responsible for your safety. These models and instructions come with no guarantees or warranties. Choose print settings with strength in mind: extra walls and at least 30% infill.

## Concept

Put your router in a shuttle that glides in one dimension along rails. Put those rails on other rails and you've got yourself a 2 dimensional plane. Put some wood under it, and you've got the ability to thickness anything you like.

## Assemble Shuttle

Here, the shuttle is three different pieces

• shuttle-base
• wing-right
• wing-left

Print them out and assemble them. The wings slide onto the base via dovetail. Then I put a long bolt from the bottom of the sled through the wings (4 bolts total). I don't remember the size, if someone prints it and leaves a make. I'll update the description.

The wings are designed so that the inner part slides inside the 8020 track. This prevents it from jumping off. The plastic slides well over the 8020, no need for rollers or anything.

Attach the router to the shuttle via the washer, nut, and a bolt you need to supply. If the nut fails, you'll have a bad time. I printed the nut with 999 layers.

## Sliders

The shuttle gives you one degree of motion between two 8020 rails. You then need that to slide left to right (as in the video). To accomplish this I designed 3 types of “sliders”.

• “Side slider”

This is very secure and durable, but you cannot remove it without disassembling your 8020. This is what I used in the video. Removability is important if you want to bring the whole shuttle assembly inside.

• “wide slider”
• Left/Right “removable slider”

These are removable but less secure. I think I settled on the "removable slider" variant towards the end, but racking was a problem and I wasn't really happy with either solution.

They're small enough, so print all three and see which works for your needs

## Printing
 

• Shuttle base has the "hole problem" (describes the problem and a fix https://www.printables.com/model/275757-gridfinity-base-template-with-improved-holes-and-w ) from the hex holes. I may have printed it on it's side, or used supports.
• Everything else can be printed with no supports. Including the wings. Position them so the side of the "t" that locks inside the 8020 is on the print bed.

## Router bit
 

I used 1-1/2" Flattening Bit-8mm with shank from Lee Valley (the largest this router will take). You can adjust the depth of the router using the built in router adjustment.

## Assemble the sled

•  Make a long box with connectors and slide the shuttle in it. What you see here is two 8-6" sections at the end and 4-6 foot long pieces for the length. 
• Make 4 supports and attach something between them. I used 8020 here, but technically you don't have to if you're not using the "side slider" which goes inside the rail.
   

You'll need to provide your own 8020 rail and connectors.

## Parallel setup

To make a router sled work, it must slide parallel to the underside of the wood you're flattening. This is more challenging than it seems. See this video that demonstrates the problem via using diagonal strings https://youtu.be/IIOKXomj3No?si=J0y5wwebIgNwybq7&t=157 .

In my video notice that I'm doing this on concrete outside. If you know anything about patios, you'll know they're intentionally sloped. That means my "level to the horizon" was not parallel to the ground. That means that even though my cuts were parallel, the wood at the end came out like a wedge instead of like a pancake.

The ultimate goal is consistent thickness of wood. To achieve this we can make a platform for the wood to sit on and then use setup blocks to ensure the shuttle is a consistent distance away on all four corners.

If you've got extra 8020 rail attach them to make a box and put a flat surface across them (like MDF of plywood). It's nice if it's level, but it doesn't have to be precise.

Once you have a stable platform for your wood, the only thing that matters is that the distance to that and your shuttle is consistent. You can achieve this by using setup blocks on all 4 corners.

These blocks are in 1/2 inch increments https://www.printables.com/model/68241-half-inch-setup-blocks . Get close with the blocks, then adjust the rest of the depth.

So, if all four corners are 2 inches away from the platform you built, then you've got a consistent thickness (which is the end goal). In contrast to the prior youtube video, see this one where a ruler is used to make sure the sides are at a consistent height https://youtu.be/bUPfbwCBAgQ?si=LlE3K_yoalTbwd-F&t=784 (this is much easier). The only thing to watch for with this method is the floor where your wood rests must be flat.

Good luck. Post a make please if you try this out.