September 30, 2022
Description
This is a backer for the Ultimate Picture Frame (UPF) by Kat Creates. The UPF is a fantastic project that enables you to build picture frames of any size. Learn more here:
https://katzcreates.com/ultimate-picture-frame-shop
Faye offers several packages for inches, metric, or both. There are also “Pro CAD Edition” packages that include CAD files to make modifications. I purchased a pro edition of the “Inches” bundle to make this project.
This project is designed to be used with an 8" x 11" frame that needs a closed back. Create things like shadow boxes or electronic frames that need a back for mounting components. I accurately matched the design and measurements of the UPF pieces by using the UPF CAD files to reference dimensions.
You print the frame pieces and two top corner pieces and then finish the frame with one of these backers.
The back is broken into several pieces, so they will fit on the most common print beds. There are several pieces:
This is the one required piece. If you don't need a completely closed back, you can print this and be done. The panel replaces the lower corner pieces you would typically print for a UPF. It extends to meet the bottom of the top corner pieces.
Like the standard panels for the UPF, secure the panel to your frame with glue or M3 screws.
To completely close the back, print a top panel. Slide the panel into the slots on the main panel. Secure it with glue, four (4) M3x3mm screws, or both.
Optionally, you can print individual right and left panels if you only want half of the top section covered. Leave the left or right side open for easy access to a charging port, Arduino, etc.
The main panel has space at the bottom you can use to run a power cable for electronics. Depending on your control board's orientation, it might be too easy to tug and disconnect the cable. This piece helps you secure your cable.
Push an M3 nut into the slots on the slots in clamp. Insert M3 screws into the holes near the main panel's bottom (just above the opening for the power cable).
Secure the clamp to the other side (the side facing the inside of the frame) using these screws. Don't tighten them; just get the screws threaded into the nuts.
If the nuts are difficult to push in, you can tighten the screws to pull the nuts inside of the clamp. Loosen the screws after doing this.
When you're ready to install your electronics, feed your power cable under the clamp. Make sure you have enough slack to connect it to whatever needs power, and then tighten the screws. Don't overtighten and pinch the cable! Your goal is to create just enough force to make it more challenging to pull the cable and disconnect power.
The curve in the clamp leaves a 1mm space between the main panel and the clamp. This is there to help you not crush your cable. The thinnest USB power cable I had was 1.8mm at its thickest point.
I used this to create a “Dad Status Sign” to communicate if I can talk or not during weekdays. I closed off the frame with this backer to block LEDs from glowing through the open back and protect the wiring.
I used a small Adafruit Huzzah board with WiFi, a Neopixel LED strip, and three (3) Neopixel LEDs for the guts.
The front is laser-etched plywood. The plywood slid into the cavity typically intended for a glass or acrylic piece to cover a photo. That left plenty of room inside to mount Wago connectors, the Huzzah board, and LEDs without bending wires at any extreme angles.
This really highlights the flexibility of Allie Katz's UPF project.
If you'd like to do something like this, I release the code on GitHub. You can find it here:
License:
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
cmaddy
