zero clearance adjustable miter runner insert for table saw

Update

• Additional model for 16.4mm - 17.5mm grooves (fits Bosch GTS X10).
• (In case your groove is only marginally smaller, i suggest to manually grind it off)

Idea 

• Above the final miter runner the cross cut sled will be placed which will have small holes at the exact position of the central bolt. This allows to adjust the clearance from the top with the sled in the groove. 
• When torquing the bolt, the part will compress under the countersunk bolt head and it will push sideways out what results in zero clearance in the groove - or even slight pressure on the walls, you can set it to the preferred resistance. 
• if you have a large printer, or need only short runners, you can also merge multiple inserts together in a larger part, then you don't need the wooden structure. 

Info

• Build with solid infill and with support - there will only be a minimal 1-2 layers of support structure between the central nut housing and the lower piece. 
• make sure that the walls do not merge and that always a small gap remains
• Per insert needs 1x M4 (lock) nut and 1x M4 countersunk bolt (M4 x 9) had to cut mine
• Per insert needs two small wood screws (3.0 x 8mm) had to cut mine as well
• The central hole to place the nut housing should be a bit larger than 10mm, to allow for positioning tolerance.. better 11-12mm
• when installing the inserts to the wooden piece: make sure that all inserts are placed in the groove of the table saw and that all are slightly touching both walls. 
• If the part is already too wide for the groove without a bolt torqued - you may want to check your printer settings, or just manually grind off a little on both sides until it fits loosely.

I have used 6 inserts per runner - make sure you have always at least 2, but better 3 inserts engaged in contact in the groove.  -  For my 600mm, i have placed the center at 50, 150, 250, 350, 450, 550mm. 

Instructions and more detailed videos are on my instagram page:

Instagram | WoodEnti | Zero Clearance Insert for Table Saw

English

I‘m starting to build my cross cut sled for my table saw. I decided to build my own 3D printed runners which allow to adjust the gap with and clamping force. I printed the parts, pushed in an M4 nut, cut the countersunk screws to the right length and added some medium strong thread adhesive to increase the friction in the thread.
Next, I cut a piece of plywood slightly thinner and narrower than the groovt. I indicated the areas where I have to remove material to place the printed parts.
After aligning all parts inside the groove and tightening them to be just barely clamping, I started to secure 1 by 1 with small bolts. - stay tuned for more.

 

German

Ich begann mit dem Bau des Schiebeschlittens für meine Tischsäge. Ich habe mein eigenes 3D-gedrucktes Design entworfen, welches ermöglicht, den Spalt und die Klemmkraft einzustellen. Ich druckte die Teile, presste eine M4-Mutter ein, kürzte die Senkschrauben auf die richtige Länge und fügte einen mittelfesten Gewindekleber hinzu, um die Reibung im Gewinde zu erhöhen.
Als nächstes schnitt ich ein Stück Sperrholz leicht schmaler und dünner als die Nut. Ich habe die Bereiche eingezeichnet, in denen ich Material entfernen muss, da ich die gedruckten Teile in diesen Aussparungen platzieren werde.
Nachdem ich alle Teile innerhalb der Nut ausgerichtet und angezogen hatte, damit sie kaum klemmen, begann ich, eins nach dem anderen mit kleinen Schrauben zu sichern - Bleibt dran für mehr.