LED Smart Cauldron Lamp

See it in action!

Hardware

• Controller: D1 Mini with WLED firmware.
• Lights: NeoPixel LEDs or an Adafruit NeoPixel Jewel board. I used an RGBW Natural White Jewel.
• Power: A micro USB cable and power supply capable of powering several NeoPixel LEDs. Any modern phone charger should do.
• Wires to connect it all.

The screws are optional, depending on your tolerance for jank. If your cauldron will just sit on the shelf/table/summoning circle floor and not be moved, they aren't really necessary. The model is designed to use the following:

• 2x M2x15mm screws 
  • Attach the D1-Mini to the mount plate, and clamp the mount plate and mount back to the base leg.
  • If you don't have M2 screws, you could probably use a zip tie to hold the D1 in place.
• 2x M2x15-20mm screws
  • Secure the reflector mount to the legs, and the Jewel to the reflector mount (if you're using one).
  • M2 only because that is the size of the mounting holes on the Jewel. If you aren't using a Jewel you could take a 2.5mm drill bit to the holes and use M3 screws instead (or modify the STEP file =.
• 2x M3x15-30mm screws. 
  • Secure the light reflector to the reflector base.
  • Thread into two of the base legs, so any M3 screw at least 15mm long should work.
  • I don't use these in my Jewel version because the light reflector sits in place inside the cauldron lamp shade without any screws. However if you're using LED strips attached to the bottom of the reflector you will probably want to attach the reflector to the base somehow.

Printing Notes

The lid works best with a transparent or semi-transparent filament. White PETG works well. The photos show both a semi-transparent green PETG from JAYO, and a clear PETG from eSUN.

The light reflectors and cauldron lamp shade are to be printed in vase mode. They are designed with a 1.2mm thick solid bottom layer, so ensure your layer height and solid bottom layers settings are configured properly. The .3mf files for the reflector and cauldron lamp shade are preconfigured with these settings, but even if you use them be sure to check your gcode preview (unlike someone). 

Assembly Notes

The lower and upper base center pieces (green, pink) slot into each other. The piece with the M2 screw holes (pink) is the upper, the green is the lower. 

The M2 screws that attach the D1 Mini to its mounting plate thread into the mount's back piece (orange).

Legs 1 and 2 are interchangeable. They have M2 screw holes in the “tails” of their dovetail joints which line up with the M2 holes in the upper joint (pink).

Leg 3 and the D1 Mini leg have larger holes for M3 screws and slot into the lower base joint (green). The D1 Mini leg has extra holes that can be used with a zip tie to provide some strain relief for the USB cable.

Depending on your printer tolerances, flow rate calibration, and the weather in the spirit realm, the legs and base center should press fit together into their dovetail joints. A dab of hot glue will hold them in place if not.