Compact Screws and Small Parts Organizer (Flexible Design)

The other day I saw Printables' “Open Source Organizer”. I printed it and thought about any usage for me. After a look in my fasteners organisation I wanted to build something flexible in storage of small things e.g. screws, nuts, washers, etc.

I started with a tray, which rotates around a middle axis. Trays are in 5 compartments, (60°). A hexagon! One sixth is cut out. Thus you can turn the appropriate carousel to pick-off position, and you can have access to the content of the compartment. After taking out what you need, turn the carusels in "neutral postion. Nothing (except 0.1-0.3mm shims) can fall out if you turn the organizer upside-down. LOL.

The trays have (as I already said) five compartments. In case of larger space needed you can just snip out the dividing wall(s). The dividing walls have rated break points. E.g. for larger screws >50-60mm. The trays are available in heights of 15/20/25mm (for net content substract 2mm for the bottom plate, =13/18/23mm).

There is nothing to complain if you just raise z in your slicer for higher content (bear in mind that the bottom plate grows as you scale z).

Print out your desired trays and pile them on a Ø10mm tube or adequate. Then look what you got, what you need what you wanna adapt. 

Once ready with your individual design, start printing and assembling:

1. Your compartments Tray15 / Tray20 / Tray25 / … Layer height 0.2 or what ever you prefer. After print trim the middle hole with a reamer Ø10mm. PLA or PETG.
2. Base plate (fits all variations). Base plate receives two heat inserts M3. PLA or PETG.
3. Top plate or Top plate Hex (this one has better handling when turning the upper compartment)  or alternatively Top plate M3Gauge. Latter plate has a M3 Gauge which is printed via filament change (e.g. from yellow to black) for the last two layers. @Layerheight 0.2mm. Top plate receives a heat insert M3. PLA or PETG.
4. Needed clamps, quantity i.a.w. your number of compartments. PETG for flexibility. The clamps are slided on the rear rod and have notches that keep the clamps in the right position. The clamps help to hold all other compartments in a fixed position while you turn another compartment. otherwise you would not have much fun.
5. Handle. Check for best strength, so maybe print it one side on the printbed. PETG for better strength. Check that it easy slips down the rear rod, once this is printed, depending on the layerorientation it is likely the quickly break the receiving hole for the rear rod. A file may help you.
6. Pre-assemble base plate, all compartments, top plate and measure the total height. Add 29mm (handle) to the total. This is the length of the rear rod. Don't just scale the rear rod to your need as the notches pitch will change and the notch-effect may get worse.
   In Prusa Slicer I laid down the rear rod (170mm native) and added a “negative volume” as a box. Now your math skills are requested to calculate and lay the negative volume on the top-side of the rear rod. Position it that it barely covers the end of the rod. When you slice this the negative volume is cut off of the rear rod and the rod should be correctly long. Print it, maybe PLA is a bit stronger than PETG, or what ever you think.
   The rear rod is screwed with two M3 hex screws to the rear side of the base plate. Not overtighten!
7. Lastly you need to print the middle axle: The axle dives into the base plate by 6mm. As the base plate is 10mm thick, the axle is 10-6= 4mm higher than ground. 
   For determination of the axle take the whole package from base plate via compartments until top of the top late. This gives you XXXmm. Now substract the 4 mm from this XXX and the result is YYY. 
   Example: You measure 132mm for the complete package. Your axle is 132-4 = 128mm! 
   Check in the files area which is the closest axle for your calculated axle. Take that axle (either 150/120/100/80mm) and re-scale it in your Slicer. 
   Note: Do not scale proportional, as the fitting size of the axle will suffer! Just scale the length!!! Print the axle laying on one of the flat hex surfaces.
   After print insert one of the heat inserts. Do a double check if the height is okay. So use a countersunk M3 screw on the base plate for the axle, put all compartments on the axle, rework diameter if needed. Put top plate on top and check if the axle is somewhat flush with the top plate. In my opinion it doesn't hurt if the axle is up to 0.5 lower. If you drill a hole into the axle upper section of 2-2.5mm then use a M3 screw which is about 12-15mm, then this helps you fixing the screw after complete assembly, which means you can adjust the system for performance.
8. Once everything fits, rear rod and axle fit in length insert the clamps, orient them a corresponding compartment (middle) each. 
9. You can now screw in a M3x8-10mm for the handle to the top plate. Remember there is already a heat insert M3.
10. Finally you drill two Ø2mm holes through the rear part of the handle into the rear rod. Two self tapping screws gives the complete system additional stability. You easily ave a couple of pounds in weight, and you can carry the “heavy” box by handle.

Now I hope I have nothing forgotten. I hope you will like my design and it will help you in your self-organization. If you are a nerd in organization, why don't you make a set for your best friend(s)?

Explore my other Printables: https://www.printables.com/de/@Tritschi 

Happy printing.
Gregor

Edit: 18-Oct-2023: Added M4 Top Plate.

Maybe a version M5 will come soon. Wait and see…