MiSTer FPGA Mini Console Case

Features: 

3 Front mount USB ports (1 internal for wifi or BT dongle)

Left side mounted microSD card slot

Console style power switch (loosely modeled after the PCEngine and TG16)

HDMI port

Serial User port (for SNAC and MT32-Pi)

5v DC power port

And the 3 IO board buttons on top

Plenty of ventilation

This case forgoes having VGA or Ethernet to save on space.

Included in the download files:

Top.stl - This is the top half of the console case. This is for single color printing.

Top_multicolor.stl - This has the ON/Off and MiSTer text as separate pieces to print in a different color. See below for how to deal with that.

Bottom.stl - This is the matching bottom half.

switch.stl - This is the power switch piece.

Power Switch Support.stl - This is the support tower that hold the sliding power switch in place.

Button.stl - This is the buttons that activate the IO board buttons. Print 3 of these.

Stand.stl - This is the vertical stand for the case

Parts you need to complete the build:

Besides your basic MiSTer pcb stack (DE10-nano and either Digital or Analog IO board), there are some extra stuff you need to put this all together.

Screws

4 x M3 x 25mm machine screws - These are the case screws that hold the top and bottom case pieces together

4 x M2.4 x 6mm machines screws - 2 are for the microSD card extension holder and 2 hold the power switch in place

4 x M3 x 10mm machines screws - These mounts the MiSTer PCB stand to the case bottom

2 x M3 x 6mm flat head machine screws - These are to mount the rear panel mounted HDMI extension cable. You can use pan head too, flat head just looks nicer and mounts flash to the rear panel. 

4 x M3x14 Female Hex Brass PCB Motherboard Spacer Standoff - Combined with the 4 brass spacers that are included with a DE-10 nano, these connect the IO board and USB to the DE10-nano.

7 x M3 x 6mm - 4 of these are used to screw down the top of the IO board to the MiSTer to keep everything secure. 2 more are used to keep the power switch tower in place. Last one (with a m3 washer) is used to hold the USB hub in place.

Other hardware (links to where to buy)

MakerSpot USB Hub - This is used in place of the expensive official USB hub plate.

Right Angle Micro USB cable - This replaces the short and not right angle cable on the MakerSpot hub.

microSD to microSD entension - Just need 1 of these. Might be able to use a different model, but the case was designed with this on in mind.

Left Angle HDMI extension - This connects from the HDMI port on the DE10-Nano to the back panel

90 Degree DC power plug - You will use this to connect the power on your DE10-nano. It's a tight fit so maybe a shorter straight one would be a better fit. 

Power Switch - Power switch model L101011SS03Q from C&K. I used this one as it was physically larger and could handle more DC current than a lot of the small cheap ones

DC Power socket -  Just need 1 of these

Print settings:

I have uploaded two versions of the top lid piece: a regular version and a multicolor version. 

The regular version has a debossed logo and raised text for the ON/OFF on it where as the multicolor version is designed to have the logo and ON/OFF text printed in a different color on the case.

To print the multicolor version, in your slicer click on the case and then use the option to "Split to Objects" in BambuSlicer or PrusaSlicer. If you use Cura or something else they probably have a similar option.

After you split to objects, you can select the individual letters of text in the logo on the front of the case and assign them a color. For the version I sell I assigned black to the case colors and then red to the letters. But feel free to get creative. 

Assembly Steps: 

Refer to the photos as most of it is pretty self explanatory. You will need to remove the plastic case from the MakerSpot hub as we just need it's PCB. You will need to desolder it's existing cable (it's too short). Then cut the Right angle cable down so it's 8 or so inches long. Solder it in place of the original cable and plug the right angle port into the MiSTer where the USB goes. Then it slots into the front of the case and held in place by a single m3 screw with washer. Please use a multimeter to verify connections and power polarity before powering on the MiSTer. 

Power: Strip back the power plug cable and solder the black ground wire to the external solder lug on the DC power jack. Solder another wire (red) to it's center pin and then solder the other end to the power switch. Solder the remaining wire from the power plug cable to the other pin on the switch. This lets you use the power switch to toggle power to the MiSTer. Please use a multimeter to verify connections and power polarity before powering on the MiSTer. 

If you build one of these, I would love to see pictures of it. Tag me on Twitter if you post there. I'm @toddsnerdcave

thanks!

todd