Stand for Nolzur's Marvelous Brush Set by Army Painter (no MMU required)

This stand fits nicely the Nolzur's Marvelous Brush Set (see the pics, it did happen!) and can be printed either with or without a multi-material enabled printer, such as the Prusa MMU, the future E3D ToolXChanger, Mosaic Palette, Chameleon, &c —or using the “Virtual Tool” technique, that adds a color-change G-code as the “Tool Change G-code”.

This also serves as an example of my OpenSCAD Paint Bottle Stand used for something else that paint bottles. 

For the side panels, you can just use the good ol' Z-based color change. The back panel has a raised and an embedded logo that you can either print with your multi-material or using the Print-On-Print technique and Z-based color change. There are versions with the logo either “ascending” or “descending” for each side, so you can make it as you like the most.

Note that the drybrush is thicker, and it's intended to be at the rightmost place in the stand. You can mirror on X the bottom tray and top tray, or rotate 180 degrees on Y the top tray, if you want it at the left. I prefer it at the right, as then the brushes can be placed according to the workflow basecoat-detail-drybrush-(detail).

Using the Print-On-Print technique

This technique devised by Devin Montes from the MakeAnything YouTube channel is a simple and very effective way to put two or more colors in your base layer(s). Use a 0.2 layer height and the files in the folder “Back panel - POP”. 

Start by printing the logo insert, then remove the skirt and purging line. Change filaments, preheat the nozzle and let it “drip” for a while, until you see no more filament coming out, and remove the filament dripping from the nozzle, so the nozzle tip is clean. Then print the back panel, and remember to add a Z-based color change for the raised logo. 

A z-hop bigger than 0.4 can help you avoid the nozzle leaving blobs over the previously printed part. The most “dangerous” moment, though, is when the printer does its mesh bed leveling —that's why you should preheat and let the filament “drip” and remove it before you start printing the big panel part.

Using multicolor printing / Virtual Tool technique

Usually, slicers don't allow mixing color by part and z-based color change, so the back panel is split into three parts: the back insert, the main back panel (with the inser hollowed out), and the raised logo. This are in the folder “Back panel - Multipart”. The insert and logo have self-centering, non-printable fillets, so you can position them easily on the main panel part; just set the coordinates for all objects to the same values, and you're done (or the inserts at 0, 0 X, Y if you use “Object Coordinate” positioning).

I've also added for reference a PrusaSlicer .3mf file with the multipart object using the Virtual Tool technique for my flavour of Mk3S with a 0.6 nozzle.

Mounting the stand

First slide the side panels onto the back panel —better with the logos facing outwards.

Then, insert the top and back trays. Make sure that you've aligned the big hole in top and bottom trays (altough the drybrush end can fit well in the smaller bottom tray holes… I think).

Finally secure the trays with the locking pins. These are easy to be lost while removing the prints from the bed or while mounting, so it's good to print some replacements.

You may find it easier to first mount, then secure one tray and then do the same for the other.

And that's it! Happy painting!