Snapmaker J1/J1s Tophat

The factory filament routing on the Snapmaker J1/J1s IDEX 3D printer requires a sharp bend at the top of the print head.    The filament guides frequently rub against the top of the printer.

This tophat adds an additional 80mm of height to the printer.  The additional height allows for a much more relaxed filament path, reducing friction, binding, breakage, and other filament issues.

In addition, the tophat adds a 22CFM exhaust fan, allowing you to leave the top cover in place -- even when printing with PLA.   If you are printing with cooling-adverse filaments such as Polycarbonate (PC) or Nylon (PA) you should either unplug the fan and/or click in place the magnetic interior fan cover.

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Corner and Panel Fabrication

I used Phrozen TR300 Ultra-High Temp resin for all of the printed parts.   

The printed parts could alternatively be printed with an FDM printer like the Snapmaker J1/J1s.   However, be sure to use a higher temperature filament such as Polycarbonate (PC) to avoid part distortion due to heat exposure.

The four 0.25" (6.35mm) aluminum side panels can be laser cut via a service such as Send Cut Send, Oshcut, or Xometery.   

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Additional Materials Needed
 

• (16) M4 x 12mm button head screws (securing four corners to aluminum side panels)
• (4) M4 x 12mm socket head cap screws (securing external fan shroud to rear panel)
• (4) M4 x 45mm button head screws (securing fan)
• (4) M4 hex nuts
• (20) M4 brass inserts
• (8) 15mm x 2mm neodymium magnets (securing tophat to the printer and the top lid to the tophat)
• (4) 8mm x 2mm neodymium magnets (securing interior fan cover)
• (1) 60mm x 25mm 24v fan
• (1) 4-pin cable (available for purchase from Snapmaker Support)
• (2) 22-18 gauge heat shrink solder connector
• (2) VHT SP995 Engine Enamel Nu-Cast Aluminum paint (optional)

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Assembly Instructions
 

1. If your corners are resin-printed (highly-suggested), press in the inserts after support removal and washing, but before curing.   I found using a vise, clamp, or brass draft punch can help insert the insert until they are flush with the printed part.
   
   If your corners are FDM-printed, use a soldering iron to heat set the inserts.
    
2. Optional: Paint all printed and aluminum pieces with VHT Cast Aluminum.   Follow the instructions on the can to properly achieve three coats. 
    
3. Assemble the corners and panels together using the M4 x 12mm button head screws.
    
4. Remove one end of the 4-pin cable and strip 0.5" (12mm) of insulation from the black and red wires.   Remove the plug off the end of the fan and also strip 0.5" (12mm) of insulation from the black and red wires.   Use the heat shrink solder connectors to connect the wires appropriately.    
    
5. Place the fan and included guard into the external fan shroud.   Push the M4 x 45mm button head screws from the outside of the shroud, through the fan, and then the guard.   Ensure that you don't pinch the wires.   
    
6. Attach the external fan shroud to the rear panel using the 4 M4 hex nuts.     Secure the shroud with the additional M4 x 12mm cap head screws.   
    
7. Use gel superglue to adhere the magnets to both the top and bottom of the tophat corners.   Use gel superglue to adhere the magnets to the outer recesses of all four corners of the internal fan cover.   Allow at least one hour for the adhesive to fully cure.
    
8. Place the tophat on the top of the J1/J1s and plug in the 4-pin cable into the accessory port on the rear of the printer.
    

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This was designed in Fusion 360. I have included the STEP and Fusion 360 formats of the model in case you would like to make alterations for own usage.

NOTICE: If you post remixes online --- Printables, Thingiverse, Cults, etc. -- you must include attribution and link back to this original design. Do not claim the original design as your own.